Chockstone Forum

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

Chockstone Photography

Australian Landscape Prints

Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Arapiles	(General)	(General)	(General)	[ Arapiles Guide \| Arapiles Images ]

Topic Date User

Well protected araps gr 20-22 14-Apr-2011 At 4:48:52 PM JDB

Message

On 14/04/2011 Wendy wrote:
>Straw dogs - yes, hellspite, not so sure. Bit goey at the roof.
>
>Wall Street - would give most new 22 leaders a thorough spanking. Still,
>it's got lots of gear if you can hang around to place it.
>
>Wasp - is great. Bit bouldery to the first gear, but even I can do it.
>
>Scarecrow - this was such a piece of piss I can barely remember what was
>20 about it. Only a move or so that's harder than the rest of saracen
>
>mother's son: more bouldery starts. really quite committing, with a
>few ok, but not really obvious or really stonker gear options that are
>mindlessly pumpy to place. I was very proud of myself for not down climbing
>and doing something else. Falling wasn't really a good option.
>
>Traffic: been years, but I remember thing the excellent protection description
>was a little carried away
>
>Stairway to hell: fine. take lots of cams. Be good at placing them in
>horizontals that are occasionally flaring or nubbly.
>
>Yesterday's rooster: Aside from having the same fiddly gear low down
>as BH, it then continues up on less than perfect gear to a super reachy
>and pumpy to clip carrot. It's nails for 21 and another one of the exceptions
>that prove the rule that I really am an enormous wussbag.
>
>Starless and Cecilia - bloody fabulous
>
>Judgement day: is that really 20 now? I think the gear at the end of
>the second pitch leaves a little to be desired as well.
>
>Rosy shy and bam bam - completely fine.
>
>See also: Excuse me lex, mindgames, vanoise, bossy mothers now it has
>a lovely bolt at the crux, i used to think cruel consitency and english
>ethics until i somehow managed to place about 17 pieces at the rooflet
>without particularly liking any of them recently, frenzy, hidden secrets
>(possibly the easiest 22 at the mount as well), braindrops, honeycomb,
>jesus built my hotrod (well, it's basically a sport route, so that might
>not count), white heat, and although it's a grade harder, it has the best
>gear in the known universe - milk blood.
>

What about Running on Empty and Ethereal, Wendy?