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Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
All TAS	(General)	(General)	(General)

Topic Date User

Candlestick Routes 13-Dec-2005 At 8:12:07 PM Robin

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Yeah, we did a route there a few years ago. We started up a corner thinking it was the normal route. We actually did a route starting about 30m left (as you look accross) of the normal route. Later we found out it was a route called 'Nicoles route - 60m 19ish?sh

As for the normal route you swim accross the channel & pull up on kelp to a slippery ledge. A double bolt anchor provides a tyrolean for the other more sensible climbers. 2 x 30m pitchs from memory up a superb crack system. 1st pitch steps right at about 10m then up thin crack to ledge.

From the top of the second pitch i scrambled up a steep loose ledge to belay over the back. From memory there was a hideous looking offwidth above the belay so I traversed left about 3m to a sensation hand/finger crack. Massive exposure here as it was about 60-70m of air straight down to the water. Climbed up the crack at about grade 17/18 to belay at the top of the second blocky ledge. Surprisingly there were bolt holes drilled at the belay ledge but no bolts. I have not been able to find out if this pitch has been climbed (or if I stole someones project?).

From the top of the third pitch there is a narrow walk accross to the saddle, from which a fourth pitch of climbing will take you to the summit. There is double loweroffs at the summit and at the saddle. I believe if you do the normal route you can tail a rope & hook up a tyrolean to the mainland. This would be about 70m above the water & pretty much over the top of the Tote.

Does anyone know anything about the third pitch of this climb?