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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
All NSW	(General)	(General)	(General)

Author

Scenic Blue Mountains Climbs

taco.lad

30-Mar-2011
9:49:17 PM

Hi everyone. I was looking at heading outdoors in the easter break. I do not have a guide book and there isn't much on the net for this.

I was wondering if someone could give some suggestions of really scenic sports routes in the blueies. I really enjoyed climbing out at Medlow bath with the view out over the valley and starting on climbs where you had to sneek out on to a ledge.
I like to climb for the awesome places it takes you, so if anyone has some interesting places could you please let me know.

Thanks

DK


bw

31-Mar-2011
12:08:54 AM

grades?

bobic

31-Mar-2011
7:46:11 AM

It doesn't get more scenic than Pierce's Pass. Awesome views down the valley and a real sense of isolation.


evanbb

31-Mar-2011
8:04:20 AM

metres?

Bunny Bucket Buttress if it's in your price range would be hard to beat.


nmonteith

31-Mar-2011
8:49:39 AM

Buy a guidebook!

Its pretty hard to find a climbing area in the Blue Mtns which isn't scenic! One the most spectacular single pitch areas would be Walls Ledge - above Mirrorball at Pierces Pass. 100m cliff right below, 50m cliff above and epic views up and down the valley.


rodw

31-Mar-2011
9:03:18 AM

Sahara point main wall for much the same grades as Medlow with great views down the valley...ie up on ledge with massive cliff below you.....plus you'll have the place to yourself. (take bolts brackets)

http://www.climb.org.au/index.php?page_id=10&action=crag&crag_id=36

taco.lad

31-Mar-2011
9:14:29 AM

Umm there will be a mix of grades from beginner (16) through to more experienced (23). Sorry about lack of info. I am new to chockstone/outdoor climing. I spend too much time indoors : )

taco.lad

31-Mar-2011
9:16:06 AM

And unfortunately as there is a couple beginners it could be difficult to run a multi pitch, so maybe just single pitch routes.

Thanks

citationx

31-Mar-2011
9:24:08 AM

Much as some people hate to admit it, even something like Shipley has great views.
I think Neil hit it on the head when he said that not many aren't scenic...

Wendy

31-Mar-2011
9:27:50 AM

How many of those easy routes do you want? Because that will be your limiting factor. Celebrity Crag has a few 18s. The Freezer has a few 18s. Barden's lookout. Again, we're talking 18s, rather than 16s. The Dam cliffs have a 16 or 2 but would have to be one of the few crags without views. Still, it has a swimming hole if it's warm. Maybe New York?


nmonteith

31-Mar-2011
9:35:30 AM

Celebrity is a great spot if you like crawling around on ledges in a very scenic location. I think the 18s and 19s there are some of the best at the grade in the Bluies.

New York is a pile of junk with probably the worst scenery in the mountains.

Shipley is perfect for what you want but crowded sometimes. Get in early for the easier routes.

Bardens does a have two routes that are bolted and 16/17.

taco.lad

31-Mar-2011
9:53:00 AM

Thankyou everyone for your help!

It will be a toss up between Pierces pass (only wish we could do a multipitch as mirrorball looks spectacular), Sahara point, Shipley and Celebrity.

Woo so pumped!

onsight

31-Mar-2011
10:25:15 AM

On 31/03/2011 nmonteith wrote:
>Buy a guidebook!

Bloody good idea! I've got an interest in that but still...

If the fairly comprehensive Blue Mtns Climbing guidebook with 2700 routes at 45 crags is too expensive for you (at $59.95) then I'm happy to announce that we now have a new Blue Mtns Selected Sport Climbs guidebook at the printers. It should be in the shops within about two weeks and will be $29.95. It covers 500+ routes at 11 crags (Diamond Falls, Medlow, Shipley, Glen, Porters, Logan Brae, Boronia, Bardens, Bowens, Dam Cliffs and Freezer).

But that said, this new select book is primarily aimed at sport climbers and travellers, it great for sport routes in the 20's but as Wendy pointed out, there's not so many routes around grade 16 at those crags. It's something I really noticed when putting the book together but it's just the nature of the crags. Dam Cliffs, Medlow and Shipley (one 13 and then grade 17+) will be your best best. And Freezer for grade 18+. So for a whole lot more info -- on easier routes especially -- then I'd still recommend the more comprehensive guide. I agree New York is pox. I don't think there is much easier stuff at Celebrity (Jimmy Cliff) and the bolting a bit naff if it's your limit. Perhaps look at places like Zig Zag and Mt York.


rodw

31-Mar-2011
10:35:01 AM

I still say Sahara is your pick...just need a 4wd so make access walk in easy. (though still possble without one)

Anzac spirit and Message of Confusion are 13 & 15 on rings and perfect for budding leaders who might be in your group...then plenty of other routes at the upper grades you wanted...all with awsome view's over the wolgan.

And its not in Simon's guide book so you can save yourself some cash by not buying it :)


tnd

31-Mar-2011
10:51:15 AM

Don't buy a guidebook. Guide book authors make obscene amounts of money off the backs of poor new route developers. Word has it that that onsight bloke has upgraded his BMW X5 for a Porsche Cayenne and now flies Qantas First Class everywhere.

Auf wiedersehen
Marvin Kircher
Austria

onsight

31-Mar-2011
11:18:08 AM

Word, Marvin, except I've decided to blow off that German made crap and put down for a Ferrari FF. Kisses from the Mtns, Simon.


evanbb

31-Mar-2011
11:39:56 AM

On 31/03/2011 rodw wrote:
>I still say Sahara is your pick...just need a 4wd so make access walk in
>easy. (though still possble without one)

My enthusiasm for Sahara was always tempered by how freaking far away it is! I lived in the Blueys then too.

Linze

31-Mar-2011
4:35:15 PM

On 31/03/2011 tnd wrote:
>Don't buy a guidebook. Guide book authors make obscene amounts of money
>off the backs of poor new route developers. Word has it that that onsight
>bloke has upgraded his BMW X5 for a Porsche Cayenne and now flies Qantas
>First Class everywhere.
>
>Auf wiedersehen
>Marvin Kircher
>Austria
>

..an abstract reference to an old battle is made and, alert as ever, TND pounces at the chance to take another swipe...

dunno about 'not much info on the net', doesnt the ACA website have all the routes for the bluies listed??

taco.lad

31-Mar-2011
5:56:24 PM

No I did not know of the ACA website and it definately looks useful. But I guess I was more generally asking people what area they would recommend for the landscape or interesting crag layout. It is hard to get that information from a picture or a route diagram on the net.

DaveN

31-Mar-2011
6:32:22 PM

Boyce? Worth a look.

Dave

There are 23 messages in this topic.