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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Grampians Victoria Range Tortoise Wall (General) [ Grampians Guide | Images ] 

Author
Yurtle the Turtle / Bad Boys
spicelab
11/11/2005
9:31:40 AM
Can anyone comment on the quality of either of these climbs? I'm making a flying 2 week visit to Vic shortly and wondered if it was worth a day trip to attack these routes.

I've always been intrigued by the name of this crag. Lame I know, but unless i get consensus that it's a pile of pox I'm not going to be able to go on in life until I see it for myself.

Spice


nmonteith
11/11/2005
9:44:25 AM
They are good routes - although not very popular. Rock is of very good quality - bullet hard and smooth.
Bad Boys is shady for most of the day so is a good summer option. The creekside setting is fantastic -
and usually has enough water for a bit of light refreshment between attempts. Bad Boys is pretty hard -
very bouldery crux. Bolts are in good condition. I haven't been on Yurtle - but i did rap down it - classic
rock and looks pretty hard!
Below is a link to a few photos of Bad Boys sister route - The Boys That Were Naughty (24). Its a great
route but the gear around the crux section is very fiddly!
http://neilshaulbag.smugmug.com/gallery/397202/1/15840431


nmonteith
11/11/2005
9:56:26 AM
A few more photos are at the bottom of this page.
http://www.neilshaulbag.com/reports/241101.html
These pics were taken in November so you have an idea of the water level in the creek.
kieranl
11/11/2005
10:26:11 AM
Tortoise Wall got it's name because there was a tortoise in the pool at the base of the cliff on the first few visits

phil_nev
11/11/2005
10:42:57 AM
Bad boys is a funny route. Its not to bad to the crux, then you have to do 2-3 Butt hard moves and your on a jug. Cruisy for a while again, then a monster stopper move at the top. Seems like a cool route though, maybe im just weak.
Phil
simey
11/11/2005
10:43:08 AM
Yurtle the Turtle (25) is a great route. You couldn't ask for better rock. My recollection is that it is similar in style to Debutantes and Centipedes at Arapiles. I initially thought this pitch was pretty easy (having followed James Falla on the first ascent without falling), but I then went back to do the Direct Finish thinking it would be a formality and ended up spending most of the day trying to get up the original route! Steve Monks ticked the DF and graded the whole route 27, although I suspect its soft-touch at the grade.

It was interesting to look at Neil's photos of 'The Boys that were Naughty' (24). Neil mentions that they head-pointed the route and that the gear at the crux isn't great. I suppose the gear could be better, but I do recall taking numerous falls onto a good little #1 Rock (I think) at the crux. We established the route ground-up, so we would have placed all our gear on lead (without prior inspection) apart from an old fixed RP from the days when Ferret attempted it.

I've heard that Bad Boys (established by fat boy Glenn Tempest) is pretty bloody hard. I haven't been on it, but I recall some pretty good climbers (can't remember who) being completely shut down by it. It is graded 26, but it could be harder.

Tortology (23) also looks really good. All in all, you won't be disappointed by the quality of the routes.


nmonteith
11/11/2005
10:54:24 AM
I think Nathan had a few problems with Bad Boys...
kieranl
11/11/2005
10:54:49 AM
On the other hand we were going past Tortoise Wall with Steve Monks who had never been there and he wanted to have a quick look at Bad Boys.
On-sight straight up to the crux, no stick-clip or draws in place. One hang on the crux to work it out. He didn't go for the redpoint then - end of the day and all that but it was impressive.
simey
11/11/2005
11:24:11 AM
On 11/11/2005 nmonteith wrote:
>I think Nathan had a few problems with Bad Boys...

Obviously Nathan needs some tips from Glenn on how to get strong.

Dave J
11/11/2005
1:12:36 PM
On 11/11/2005 nmonteith wrote:
>I think Nathan had a few problems with Bad Boys...

Yes....he almost didnt onsight it.

Malcolm on the other hand spent a good few days there and Im not sure if he managed to get up it.

I thought it was a solid grade (or maybe 2) harder than yurtle the turtle direct and a good effort by trumpet.

nmonteith
11/11/2005
1:19:39 PM
On 11/11/2005 Dave J wrote:
>I thought it was a solid grade (or maybe 2) harder than yurtle the turtle
>direct and a good effort by trumpet.

Thank christ for putting me out of my misery. My feeble attempts at Bad Boys had really put a dampener
on attempting harder graded things. Glad to know its a total sandbag.

There are 11 messages in this topic.

 

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