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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Buffalo (General) (General) (General) [ Mt Buffalo Guide | Images ] 

Topic Date User
Cleaning and such 6-Jan-2011 At 11:27:14 PM singersmith
Message
First week of January, 2011

Highway 61
Brushed and weeded the first pitch corner. The mange in the roof might get sorted out at a later date with a different tool, hopefully to produce a more pleasant and free outing. The roof is pretty grim as-is. Mostly made the foot holds more crisp.

The Status Quo
Did quite a bit of work weeding, brushing, and digging dirt out of finger locks. What a fantastic climb! This route just got logged onto my top ten most fun in the world list. It's an almost perfect solo top rope route that, based on appearances, doesn't seem to get a lot of traffic which is a pity. You walk 50 meters from car to guard rail, step over, fill the horizontal break with cams, chuck a 70 meter rope off, slap on a gri gri and climb to your heart's content. First crux seems hard, but tips locks are still bottoming out in dirt/moss. Lacked appropriate tool and water. There's a 5/8" angle stuffed in one of the would-be best locks that needs to go. Also an angle in the second crux (I think...) that is very hard to avoid stepping on. There were quite a few overgrown footholds. Also was quite a bit of grass and I think one or two buried fixed pins that you wouldn't have known were there. Overall, I would describe this climb as fairly blue-collar for an .11a; in a technical way. On the other hand, it's easy to pull through either crux of about 4 meters each. Have fun.

The Pimp Hand
New route cleaned and bolted with Geoff Gledhill, having been kindly loaned Steve's sweet drill kit. We installed a two-bolt anchor (Fixe stainless rings) and one protection bolt near the top plus a fixed wire to start the route off the mossy slab. Located on the pillar about 50 meters uphill from the second-to-last ski lift pole and can be approached from the ski run or by walking past the Hump and crossing the gully. Went back feel out the moves this week and got my ass completely handed to me; Susy laughed and laughed. Freed most of the upper crack and the face scoop, probably between 22 and 24, but the start is &%^*#%^ hard. I thought it might be like 12d hard but I think it might be more like 13d hard, or at least 30. It's campusing on fingerlocks for 8-10 meters or toe-hooking the aretes at a horribly overhung angle. I couldn't get my feet to stick to anything long enough to pull on. As-is, aid climbers would have a lot of fun on a route this steep. Far too stout for me, I'm throwing it out there as an open project for somebody a lot stronger and keen. Bueller? Bueller?

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