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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Buffalo	Gorge	North Side	Pulpit Rock / Comet Ramp	[ Gorge Guide ]

Topic Date User

Defender of the faith 30-Dec-2010 At 9:31:50 PM brendan

Message

I solo aided "defender" over the last couple of days (first 3 pitches, jugged the last two as they look sh#t) just a couple of thoughts

>On 22/05/2009 nmonteith wrote:
>Belays are all good solid new bolts.

I found the first belay hard to find (a friend also couldnt find the belay a couple of months ago), In the topo it has two X's which i thought would be two bolts instead its an old carrot and a metre above an old pin with a hairline crack in the eye (i would have tried to pull it out but didnt have anything to remove it with) I built a natural belay with cams no worries, just meant i had less gear for the next pitch.

The move from the RP crack to around the corner to reach the bolt was hard, i dont know how a shorter person would do it (maybe a cheat stick?), I only just reached. I read somewhere that there was once two bolts? The next move after that when your on the bolt was up to an offset cam, then another mega reach to the left to blindly shove a cam in a crack and do another mini lower off on to it, again i feel sorry for short people trying the route.

>No need for big cams, but you will
>need at least doubles of #4. RP's are really useful for the first pitch
>- you will place quite a few of them in a row but they are all sinker.

I would say for "defender" you definatly need
-set of small cams ( I had BD C3)
-two set of cams (i had BD #.4 - #5 and doubles of #.5 - #4 and still had to back clean them)
-set of rp's (i had 2 sets)
-nuts (i had a set of BD that i only placed maybe 3 times on the route, i also had a full set of DMM nuts and placed the bigger sizes on every pitch)
-bolt plates/tie offs (there are a couple of carrots on the route)

i also had
-cam hooks (which i used on the 1st pitch, to speed things up)
-offset master cams to 00/0 - 2/3 (these are awesome, the cracks are quite flaring and these give you an extra degree of security)
-DMM peanuts
-#3 pecker (i hand placed this above the roof of the second pitch)