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Crag & Route Beta

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Crags near Merimbula?

10:47:01 PM
I'm heading up to Merimbula for some fun in the sun. Does anyone know of any Crags in the area, and where I can find out more details.

10:57:26 AM
Bittangabee/Green Cape is near-ish. Down around Eden in Ben Boyd NP. They're definitely worth a look, but almost an hour from Merimbula I'd say.

10:27:37 PM
Thanks Evan. I found the guide on the Canberra climbing site. It looks like fun - at low tide!!!
8:17:35 AM
Hi Cam,

I spotted some rock(Mt Dromedary) at Tilba Tilba whilst holidaying in the region (see link)

Don't know if there are any worthwhile climbs there....

9:12:52 PM
I've been doing a heap of work around Tilba lately, the 1st thing I'll say is that Little Drom is just that...Little. There are heaps of tors around, though 99% of it all is on private property and hardly worth the trek in for. Plus it's been pretty damn hot in there lately and the ticks are out of control. My 2c: Take a surfboard and a good spinning rod coz the surf's been great and the Bonnies are running!

9:01:04 PM
Driving down Brown Mountain from Cooma to Bega this afternoon I spied a large granite slab off to the north. The 1:25,000 topo calls it "white rock". Any hints as to whether it has been checked out before, and if so, if it is worth a look as an option for something longer than the 12 m sea cliffs in this area?

11:56:24 PM
City Rock at Ben Boyd is 20m high. Really good quality and easy 10 minute access as well.

2:13:17 PM
Thanks Niel - city rock sounds like a good plan. FYI, the cruxmag guide that is linked from the ACA website seems to be down. Might be nice to head out and just climb for a change though, rather than worrying about grades ;)

4:59:24 PM
I need to enter it all into ACA. Might do it tonight if i get the time. Grades are between 17 and 24. All easy to toprope if you don't want to commit to something unknown. Bring a trad rack and some hangers for the top anchors. Climbing style and protection is like Point Perp.

6:38:44 PM
Thanks neil - might get down there tomorrow if the weather plays nicely.

7:30:26 PM
Guidebook here:

7:33:01 PM
Neil's guide link with added clicky goodness

6:13:00 PM
Was towing a father-in-lawish with limited mobility to the crag, so opted for the more easily accessible pulpit rock. Decent rock, technical climbing, and the gear in most cases is fine. The climbs are short, but there's little filler between the ground to the top out. Summary: a good day out, and worth the drive in from Merimbula, or as a rest day on the drive from Melbourne to Sydney.

For reference, the hanger on the second bolt on Dan Would be Proud is rusting pretty quickly. Seemed OK for now, but would be worth taking a new (stainless!) hanger and a spanner if you're going to be dogging.

8:20:55 AM
Just got back from my week of fun in the Sun at Merimbula.

Spent a day at Bitangabee Sea Cliffs. As the Real Estate guys say "Location, Location, Location." What a great spot. It's about an hours drive south of Merimbula, then a good 30 min walk in, but it is certainly worth the trip. The routes are fairly short (~12m), but there is a huge selection and quite good quality rock. Pro is poor on some routes, but if you are not too proud to use a top route, then there are endless possibilities. Just take ~15m of static, as some of the cracks are a few meters back from the edge. After midday most of the face is in shade, and this combined with the sea breeze makes it a great spot for a summer day. If I was going again, I would setup camp at Bitangabee for a week, and take a Kayak and Snorkel gear as well - it's a lovely bay. (The Kayak would turn the 30 min walk in into a 10 min paddle)

Another great spot nearby for deep water soloing is Nethercote Falls (Sign posted from Back Creek Road, 5km west of South Pambula) It's also a great spot for cliff jumping - just search "Nethercote Falls" on youtube. They don't promote the spot anymore as numerous people have been killed there - so be careful!
10:17:08 AM
just been there yes would be great but sign there says no climbing and when watching people trying to get up for the jump sounds like a good idea as saw 2 people come off with one just making tio the water instead of the rock . dont know what the upper pools cliffs are like but only alittle area with deep water below

There are 15 messages in this topic.


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