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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
All NSW (General) (General) (General)  

Author
Bluies Trad Suggestions
NealD
22/10/2010
7:55:41 AM
Hi,

Can anyone suggest some good trad areas / routes that have climbs in the 20-24 grade range that aren't crack climbs? It's not that I don't like jambing but it seems harder to find naturally protected routes on faces/aretes.

Thanks

Neal

pmonks
22/10/2010
8:00:34 AM
On 22/10/2010 NealD wrote:
>Can anyone suggest some good trad areas / routes that have climbs in the
>20-24 grade range that aren't crack climbs? It's not that I don't like
>jambing but it seems harder to find naturally protected routes on faces/aretes.

errr.....that's because Blueys sandstone doesn't really lend itself to fully naturally protected climbs unless there are cracks (although there are odd climbs that have a mix of bolts and gear in horizontal breaks or discontinuous cracks or wotnot). In fact that's pretty rare full stop - Araps being about the only crag I've climbed where naturally protected face climbing was basically ubiquitous...
NealD
22/10/2010
8:36:16 AM
Thanks. I understand the reasons, just looking for some suggestions for any exceptions people know of. How does the Wolgan compare? I haven't been out there yet.
mikllaw
22/10/2010
8:58:55 AM
Good trad climbs that aren't jambfests?

in the Wolgan on the Coke ovens there are few right of sizzler, and In the name of morality is very facy at times.

Cosmic County- most of the faces are considered trad by sports climbers and sport by trad climbers - ie. a few bolts and a few cams

Grose-
50 year itch only has a few jambs
My kind of Bliss and Gnaw Iron bars are good crack lines with minimal jambing.
Disco Biscuit - goodish gear and long, one easy crack pitch, add a bolt on the 3rd pitch easy section, I'll lend you a hand drill.

Mt banks-
Ab Flab and Zanahoria are 24 face climbs with mostly natural gear, PM and I'll send a route description

NealD
24/10/2010
11:15:22 AM
Thanks for the help. The Grose valley options sound good. I'll let you know if I plan to have a go at Disco Biscuit re: the drill. I found the PDFs for the Mt Banks climbs on the Sydney Rock Climbing website.

There are 5 messages in this topic.

 

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