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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Grampians Northern Hollow Mountain & Surrounds Amnesty Wall [ Amnesty Images ] 

Author
Wall left of Sting Like a Bee?

shiltz
9/08/2010
3:57:26 PM
Have the bolted routes on the wall left of Sting Like a Bee been written up anywhere?

nmonteith
9/08/2010
4:00:41 PM
Yes - they are all listed on the climb.org.au site - but it seems at the moment that site is buggered.

shiltz
9/08/2010
9:45:50 PM
I noticed that... I guess it will be back up sooner or later.

D.Lodge
9/08/2010
10:24:42 PM
It's back!

nmonteith
9/08/2010
10:53:26 PM
Online guide here:
http://www.climb.org.au/index.php?page_id=10&action=area&area_id=193
WM
10/08/2010
10:08:03 AM
Flying Emu is ordinary, but notable for being one of the easiest rain-protected routes in the gramps. (its not totally rain proof but pretty good)

Who added the comment in the ACA guide that League of Nations is "Mostly a retrobolt of Chinese Water Torture. Naughty!!! " ?? This is wrong. LoN's bolts are further away from CWT than the first 3-4 bolts of Tyrant's Grasp!! Where LoN veers into CWT for a few metres (at about 2/3 height) there are no bolts and you need trad or face a fair runout. I will remove the slur on LoN from ACA unless anyone gives me good reasons not to!

nmonteith
10/08/2010
11:42:24 AM
On 10/08/2010 WM wrote:
>Who added the comment in the ACA guide that League of Nations is "Mostly
>a retrobolt of Chinese Water Torture. Naughty!!! " ?? This is wrong.
>LoN's bolts are further away from CWT than the first 3-4 bolts of Tyrant's
>Grasp!! Where LoN veers into CWT for a few metres (at about 2/3 height)
>there are no bolts and you need trad or face a fair runout. I will remove
>the slur on LoN from ACA unless anyone gives me good reasons not to!

That is my route description. Between the retrobolts on Tyrants Grasp and League of Nations there is no longer any space for the original trad route. You could be clipping bolts on either side. Chinese Water Torture was a line of least resistance - it wandered around a bit to get the best protection - the new sport routes go more direct because they are bolt protected. The original description of LON made no reference to treading all over the original trad route.

shiltz
10/08/2010
12:22:11 PM
Some of the guys did Flying Emu and found it ok. We did Sting Like a Bee, well Chris did, I wasn't fit enough to hold on for long enough. That's what a four week holiday and a couple of extra kilos will do.

There are 8 messages in this topic.

 

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