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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Southwest	You Yangs	(General)	(General)	[ You Yangs Guide \| Images ]

Topic Date User

You Yangs - Flinders Peak Bolting? 5-Aug-2010 At 11:28:31 AM Estey

Message

I've never climbed at the crag in question so I don't have an opinion on the routes mentioned in the OP. However more generally;

I recall a discussion at a meeting of my local climbing association about whether it was appropriate to retro some local slab climbs on the basis that nobody ever climbs them anymore. One wag from the audience noted that the best climbs on the crag were the ones with no gear. As always there are arguments for both sides.

Overbolting granite slabs actually defeats the purpose of climbing them. Technique, mind control, confidence, temperature and even courage play a part. If they take the time to put in a few miles on 2nd/TR then most climbers can safely progress to lead runout easy/moderate slabs. Most of them may even enjoy the experience more by building up to leading a route in a confident and controlled manner.

Its a fine line between common sense and destroying the route. I recently retroed a slab on the request of the first ascentionist. For context the route now has 4 bolts in 30m instead of 3. I copped a spray from one local climber because he had led it in the original state. Another much more accomplished climber told me I should have wacked 2 more in.

Ten years ago I would have argued that adding a bolt is never acceptable. As I get older I more inclined to say that as long as access and local ethics aren't threatened too much adding an extra bolt down low to reduce the risk of grounders actually makes a better climb.