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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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Climbing at Mt Kuring Gai - any advice?
11:36:01 AM
Browsing ACA last night I came across the entries for mt kuring gai and it sounds pretty good. Particularly motocross wall and lost and found.

Anyone got any beta for this time of year? It is worth the visit? Is the rock any good? Are the midges really that bad?

I've had my fill of narabeen and berowra and keen to check out some new crags...(sport climbing 16-23)

11:49:11 AM
Some good climbs out there - but there is some rubbish as well. It's WELL worth the extra effort of walking to the furthermost crags - they are much better than the close ones. Its a beautiful location with views down onto the river. Not at good as Berowra but certainly good for a change.

11:56:54 AM
p.s. there will be (hopefully) no midges in winter.

12:09:40 PM
Dont listen to Neil it heaps better than Berowra :) ..(jks btw hard to compare)...some routes are good, some are crap like any crag but there are a few "classic's" in a local sense.

There have been leechs recently causing a bit of trouble around Fossil wall but not the others...but no midges atm at any of them.

The grades you describe is perfect fit for Mt K...enjoy.

12:38:36 PM
Yeah the lost and found wall has some good routes its a good bush bash down the hill and getting out is hard work after some good climbing but I think its worth it.

Dont know what it would be like at this time of the year though what with the wet weather and all I havent been there for a few months but seems like it would have the potential to be really wet and leechy......

I have encountered many a leech at the lost and found wall but no where else at the few crags in the area

12:49:21 PM
go to nowra or the bluies.
no sydney crag is a legitimate climbing area. people only established them because they couldnt be bothered driving further.

12:50:24 PM
Best time of year for the other walls...they get a bit of sun so quite pleasant in winter ..especially Lost & Found.

Just note its hasnt had the traffic as much as narrabeen and berowra, so while rock quality is pretty good...some stuff still does come off much like it would have a the other crags many a year ago.

1:51:32 PM
On 23/06/2010 hangdog wrote:
>go to nowra or the bluies.
>no sydney crag is a legitimate climbing area. people only established
>them because they couldnt be bothered driving further.

People established those cliffs because they like exploring and developing new areas, which are both legitimate activities in their own right.

If everyone had your attitude, Nowra and half the crags in the Blueys would have never have been discovered and everyone would still be climbing at Glenbrook Gorge.

2:37:09 PM
Lol gotta be a troll???

Would all be nice if we had time to duck down to nowra or the blueys for a climb when the urge took hold..unfortunately a thing called life gets in the way.
8:36:10 PM
Thanks for the info, think it's on for Friday! Nothing wrong with a few leeches...

I love The mountains but they are just that little too far for a half day trip!
9:27:08 PM
the best routes at Faraway Wall are definitely worth while. And the walk is not that bad, we did 8 or 10 routes at Narrabeen steep side and Faraway in the same day and were finished by 1pm.
8:10:19 AM
yah theres some pretty nice lines at faraway wall, lots of stuff that is enjoyable on all the walls but its certainly not the mountains. ive actually still got a couple projects at motox wall, please feel free to do them and rid me of my burden

8:49:14 AM
On 24/06/2010 J.C. wrote:
>yah theres some pretty nice lines at faraway wall, lots of stuff that is
>enjoyable on all the walls but its certainly not the mountains. ive actually
>still got a couple projects at motox wall, please feel free to do them
>and rid me of my burden

Sweet. Im back there now.

What about the Sahara Pt route ?

9:46:25 AM
Take some glue bundy so you can stick back on some of the holds JC knocked off in his cleaning of the route :)...there is only the one at MT K in the cave isnt there Josh?
12:18:35 PM
i think theres that one in the cave where most of the crucial holds came off while i was cleaning & therest exploded when i was trying to work it... nasty piece of work that one, needs another bolt if anyone wants to do it and not get really hurt
then theres that arete with the scoops/underclings, again a couple exploding holds made the 2-3 moves off the deck a lot harder but its still not hard, from distant memory maybe a tough v3/4 off the deck into a reasonably pleasant 20/21? just gotta actually make the effort to go there and do it

the one at sahara point ive really gotta go do, made a few efforts to get out there at various points over the last god, 6? years since i had that mini-epic bolting the piece of crap, that one is a bit harder but definitely doable... maybe if the other routes around it were a bit better quality it wouldnt be so hard to get belayers out there! :P

1:20:11 PM
The routes on that wall are good, its just they are significantly lower in grade to your materpiece :)
1:32:14 PM
the one at sahara? its not as hard as you & kev seem to think, maybe 24 through the bottom section at the absolute most then just a bit pumpy through the last couple bolts.

1:36:11 PM
There is definitely crap- some of which I am responsible for, but then you sometimes hear people actually enjoy things you thought was pretty ordinary and was just bolted as a filler. Each to there own. The area doubles the number of safely bolted sports climbs in Sydney in the 16-23 range I reckon, and its a lovely spot in winter with no midges, and not a carrot in sight! We can't all traipse off every weekend!

The best wall is lost and found: all the climbs on the main wall (from Farewell to Fear through to Aerospace) are good and grades are:19,18,22,23/24,20,22,18. ALso good in that area is Bummaggedon, Foundlings and the climbs to its left.People also seem to like Woken Furies though its short.

Faraway Wall: the best routes are Vitruvian man 23, unless you are shorter than 177 cm in which case the full off dyno to a crimp will add 2 grades and ruin your teeth as you gnash them, Memory Cathedral 22, Death Adder19?? (which got a retrobolt so is now safe), Dark Con of Man 22? though it will need a brush, and Chris Yeomans route 20 that I forget the name for.

MotoX wall is good for a warm up before you go down the hill. Heresy 22 is probably the best climb there. Try Ragged Claw 23 (evil laugh) you might do the coveted second ascent! Very Bill Collins.

I'd give middle wall a miss unless you've done everything else in the area.

Fossil wall is short and the grades probably correspondingly hard, but its close to the car park and you could easily tick the wall in a half day. Captain Underpants 18 and The Mind has Mountains 20 and Unguarded moment 21 are good climbs here.

There is actually a few lines still to bolt around the place

11:38:29 AM
So ya head there on Friday? Thoughts?
9:30:39 AM
Keep an eye open for the large python that lives on the vegetated ledge halfway up Tickfest (22), Lost & Found.

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There are 21 messages in this topic.


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