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Crag & Route Beta

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Topic Date User

usa or canada climbing in august- places to go 17-Jun-2010 At 11:12:52 AM james

Message

On 16/06/2010 One Day Hero wrote:

>Lake Louise is fantastic quarzite climbing, mostly sport but also trad
>and mixed. Very similar to Frog in terms of ease of access, number and
>concentration of routes, and consistently superb quality of routes. The
>rock is A1, I rate this place very highly!

seconded. Doesn't look quite as inspiring as Araps but the routes are really good. Go early in summer (9am) otherwise the parking lot is full of RVs & annoying tourists. Most sport climbers in Canada are lazy & won't get to the crag until noon, so its quieter in the morning (80% of climbers at the Lake only clip bolts but you should take a small rack to make the most of it).

>I really like Horne Lake on Vancouver Island. Steep limestone cave overlooking
>THE model pine-tree beaver lake (you want "canada"? doesn't get much more
>"canada" than this) . Camping is probably a shitfight in school hols, was
>a ghost town after they end. As with the gramps caves, if you can't do
>22 warm up and 26 proj, you will get spanked.

is this near Victoria? I've also heard about good climbing in Strathcona Park (ie Mt Washington area), & a really good but limited steep crag (not many routes) near Kamloops.

in August you could go to Jasper also. Lots of good cragging, more quartzite than limestone. Lots of new stuff done in the past few years. No recent guidebook but you can get info from local stores. There are 1 or 2 spots worth stopping on the way up the Icefields Parkway, think 90m high quartzite 'blocks'. And if you feel like climbing real mountains there is alpine rock with more quartzite peaks closer to Jasper.

early spring or late fall - Utah desert is prime (ie Indian Creek, St George), Gunnison/Black Canyon maybe. Smith Rock or J-tree perhaps (think it gets hot there in summer). I've heard good things about the shorter granite trad crags in the Cottonwoods canyons (Salt Lake City), & there are some higher alpine granite crags in the Wasatch that look worthwhile (think shorter Bugaboos stuff eg: McTech). Some Bow Valley climbers go climbing near Eureka (near Whitefish, Montana) spring & fall to extend the usually short rock season. Lake Louise-type quartzite crags, less bolts, free camping & no crowds.