Chockstone Forum

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

Chockstone Photography

Australian Landscape Prints

Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
All NSW	(General)	(General)	(General)

Topic Date User

Blonde Gift- Bowens: missing crux hold 6-Jun-2010 At 11:07:06 PM SteveH

Message

On 6/06/2010 vwills wrote:
>I wasnt responsible, but the crux hold on the Blond Gift (25, Bowens Creek)
>broke off today.
>For those who dont know it the route is about 22m long. At 9m there is
>a small roof where the crux involved a gaston or layoff an average vertical
>seam with a reach to a small slopy crimp assisted by a foot cam, that led
>to a long reach or throw into a good slot.
>The crimp is now gone and lays on the ground in 2 sections about 1x 2cm
>in size, there appears to be a seepage plane behind it and the small bits
>of rock look friable and unsuited to regluing on the route. The very leftward
>part of the hold is still there and able to be held but the loss of this
>key hold has probably put the grade up at least 2-3. The rest of the climb
>is lovely sustained grade 22ish.
>
>Question:
>a) Just regrade the climb?
>b) Bolt on a hold similar to that missing
>c) Drill a pocket/ slot to replace the crimp?
>d) Call the route 23A0 and pull on a draw
>e) hide this post and have people turn into frothing maniacs when they
>fail the route

I think its great to ask the question, but will the wider chockstone opinion really effect your decision? Just a question :)

My 2 cents... If you can't re-glue it (or accidently the larger rock on the ground next to it!), leave it as is. No need for chipping or bolt-ons... plenty of climbing around it, or as you say, 1 move 27 or 23A0. Can't say you are missing that much if you don't get on it, considering whats around it!