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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
International	(General)	(General)	(General)

Topic Date User

The Nose, El Capitan 23-May-2010 At 11:54:57 AM singersmith

Message

Since you're hoping, I'll be more specific for you. The only spot on the route that you need bigger than a 3 (blue) Camalot is for about 20 feet right before you get to Dolt Tower. I use a 3.5 Camalot (these are both old style I'm talking about, not sure if they are slightly different now) and since it's 5.9/10a you can place the cam, stick yourself in the crack a bit, and slide it up. As it gets tipped out you place it farther back in the crack and right when it gets tipped out there you reach up and grab the top. After that it'd be nice if you didn't have to carry it up the rest of the route since you're not going to use it again. I wouldn't take a BD#4 up there.