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Crag & Route Beta

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Topic Date User

Canada 20-May-2010 At 10:35:20 AM gdawg

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ODH you had to bring us down to earth.

Bouldering in squampton will do more for your routes ability than anything else. I recommend adding several blocks of "pure bloc" into the itinerary (i recommended the same to ODH but, hey, would he listen? no).

My two cents: Buy a van and deck it out. I mean really deck it out (propane heater, bed, storage, space to sit in/cook/entertain. The beauty of the US/Canada Climbing scene is that you can travel. Squamish is awesome for two months (July and August) then it is ok (rain at least once a week in September) and then it is shit (months of almost solid rain until late spring). But just as squamish is crapping out Smith Rock, Yosamite and Indian Creek are cranking up (and there is no snow anywhere yet). Unlike Australia they really have seasons and the best thing you can do is find your niche for each season.

Skiing in Canada is awesome (i remommend heading to Canmore) but it is also sweet to make a sneaky trip down to j-tree in the middle of winter when the snow is crap (which can happen up until mid Jan). Also, make sure you get snow tyres for winter and use antifreeze in all car fluids (IMPORTANT!).

Flexibility is key: get a (roomy) van and kit-it-out.