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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 28
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
All NT (General) (General) (General)  

Wonderland in Alice (new developments)
9:30:58 AM
There has been a bunch of new areas opened up around Alice Springs in the last year or so.

Here are some of the highlights:

->> new cave discovered near Alice (10 mins drive) with routes from 18 to 26. The rock is steep quartzite and very solid. Route angles are 35deg to hotizontal (i.e steep!). The jewel of the cave is a 10m roof crack with a wild top-out on slopers and heel-hooks. Cave is out of the rain (!) and sun all day. Routes are either trad or bolted with some rap anchors installed.

->> three new bouldering/ short route areas of compact quartzite conglomerate. The style is similar to Arapiles rock but with more pockets, huecos.

Area 1 - the Reef (30 mins drive) - ~15 established boulder problems (V0 to V4). Potential for ~60 problems. Angles range from 60 deg overhung to slab in 4 to 8m tall boulders.

Area 2 - the Crown (~40 mins drive) - No problems yet (only visited once). Free-standing boulders and cliffs up to 15 m tall. Estimated potential for ~200+ problems and ~20 sport routes.

Area 3 - Camels hump (~50 mins drive) - Four established problems (including two of the best V4's in the Territory). Potential for ~50 problems and ~15 routes.

Winter season is the perfect time for a visit (average daily temps are ~ 20 - 25 degC).

Anyone interested in finding out more about these areas (photos etc.) can contact me.
Other areas are currently being equipped. I'll keep you posted.

Cheers Gdawg

ps. A petrol drill can be sourced in Alice if anyone has ambitions....

10:04:03 AM
Intriguing. I presume these areas don't have access issues?
10:20:05 AM
Hi Neil,

All areas are either on pastoral lease or on public land. The pasturalists in question have been very firendly and happy for climbing to take place. This is not the case of all pastoralists in the NT (or anywhere!).

With the all I have made great efforts to ascertain whether these areas are registered sacred sites. None of them appear on any register. The problem is that to the local traditional owners (TO's) all of the rocks and ridges around Alice are sacred. However, the TO's are generally very reasonable and forth coming with which areas they would and would not be happy for climbing to take place.

Fortunately, Alice is populated with a many lifetimes worth of climbing so it is not an issue to find somewhere to climb that is away from sites that are sacred or culturally significant.


Mark R
10:29:29 AM
Hey Geordie,

Did a fair bit up there quite a few years ago... where abouts is the cave... I certainly cant think of anything like that. Sounds great.

As for the bouldering there is massive potential just about everywhere. One particular spot exists within a couple of hours with 3 fields of upwards of 100 free standing boulders in each... thousands of problems to do?? Pain in the ass landing on spinifex though... real pain in the ass! Have been attacked by wildlife from the dark recesses whilst bouldering in alice too which is a bit scarey.

Close to town there is one brilliant boulder problem in Charles Creek... overhanging prow with soft sand landing... V7/8? Still a bouldery route sporting old bolts waiting to be knocked over there too at about 26 from memory. Doesnt sound nearly as grand as he developments you describe however!

Enjoy... its a pretty good time to be at it.

10:39:27 AM
Sounds grand. I might be paying a visit this winter if the stars align.
10:43:30 AM
Hi Mark,

The cave is a real gem.

Yeah, Charles Creek has some nice boulders and routes. The razor blades are still repelling hard climbers and the route remains undone (as far as I know??).

Let me know if you are planning a trip up this way.

Mark R
10:58:44 AM
Have to say... am a bit tempted. Be pretty lush in the centre this year wouldnt it? You got any photos of the cave? Still more to be done?

I havent been back up since 2002 or 3 (and I saw the Todd go 3 times), but its pretty special. Could maybe get up there for 3 or 4 day weekend late May. Will have to see if the babies are behaving!

11:03:17 AM

The the place is VERY green at the moment.

Tiger flights are ~$70 each way at the mo.

I'll try to get some phots of the cave up on the web tonight.

11:09:17 AM
On 15/04/2010 gdawg wrote:
>Tiger flights are ~$70 each way at the mo.

Tiger flights are a very dangerous proposition for a 4 day weekend. You might spend half of that time at the airport waiting for delays.
11:14:27 AM
>Tiger flights are a very dangerous proposition for a 4 day weekend. You might spend half of that time at the airport waiting for delays.

True, it is a bit hit-n-miss but the Melb to Alice leg is pretty stable. It is still the main way most Alice Springsians get out of town.

1:20:47 PM
Great news that more has been happening in Alice...!
I haven't been up for 3 or more years, but I have flights booked for the 19th June (for a week) - I have a family thing on. I would love nothing more than getting out for a few routes on a day or 3, and would be happy to climb with any local, or visiting climbers.


1:43:36 PM
Pictures or ya lying :)

2:20:46 PM
Nah I just want pictures :)

..::- Chris -::..
2:30:05 PM
On 15/04/2010 rodw wrote:
>Nah I just want pictures :)

+1 : )

2:31:59 PM
6:39:53 PM
the cave

Mark R
11:30:40 AM
Hey G... did you get any more pictures to share?
10:41:17 AM

a boulder at "the reef".
approx grade left to right v2, v6 , v7, v3
boulder is ~7m tall
10:50:15 AM

another boulder at "the Reef"
11:01:24 AM

topo of "the Reef"
white bar is ~50m long
Walk in is ~500m
30 minutes from Alice.

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