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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
All NSW (General) (General) (General)  

Author
Easy multipitch routes

Li
16/04/2010
9:23:52 AM
At the risk of totally hijacking another thread I've decided to do the right thing and post my question here. I've just recently moved to NSW and have done a little climbing in the Blueys and on the Northern Beaches in Sydney. So far I've been doing single pitch sports routes - have never done any sport climbing before, but finding it good for working on technique. However, I'm really missing multipitch trad (am missing the height and exposure!) and would like to know if there are any easy, fun multipitch routes probably up to about grade 15. cheers

voodoo
16/04/2010
9:24:57 AM
Are you specifically looking for trad multipitch or just easier multipitch in general?

nmonteith
16/04/2010
9:29:52 AM
Sweet Dreams is the most popular (at Sublime Point) - grade 14 or 17 if you do the direct finish. Its about 5 pitches long. Half bolts half trad.

Cave Climb at Narrow Neck is a good 2 pitch grade 12ish route.


MonkeyBoy
16/04/2010
9:30:28 AM
Recently did sweet dreams at Sublime point in the Blueys - Its awsome fun at grade 14. Starts with 2 nice easy mainly trad pitches then pitch 3 is a bolted traverse. Then a mixed pitch ( I think) whith the option of either a fully trad final pitch or stepping left to bolted 17 final pitch ( which I can highly recomend for a bit of exposure mixed with bolt plates and carrots at about 170m off the valley floor)

Li
16/04/2010
9:32:30 AM
Thanks guys. I prefer trad but don't mind mixing it up a little. Will check out those climbs...thanks Neil. Five pitches sounds perfect.

evanbb
16/04/2010
9:44:55 AM
As mentioned on the other thread:

Mt Boyce: The Eyrie, gr 12 2 pitches. Classic.
Wild is the Wind - 3 or 4? grade 15
There's some good stuff at the Walk Down gully area as well. A grade 14 I can't remember the name of, classic crack, and Gates of Janus next to it. Further along there are some more 'adventurous' routes.

Mt Piddo,
Joseph, 14, 2 pitches, both classic
There's a few 2 and 3 pitch routes around there. Prologue and others. Names escape me now.

Corroboree Walls
Attilla 15, 3 or 4 pitches, including some very interesting positions and a cool squeezy section to finish.

Mt Hay
Tom Thumb, 5 pitches, 1 hour walk in, 150m abseil to start, grade 12, maybe easier. Atmospheric position, great walk in and quite straght forward climbing.


Then, drive west, and go to The Wolgan.

kuu
16/04/2010
10:23:50 AM
On 16/04/2010 evanbb wrote:
>
>Mt Boyce:
>There's some good stuff at the Walk Down gully area as well. A grade 14
>I can't remember the name of, classic crack,

Gently Mine ?

evanbb
16/04/2010
11:07:54 AM
On 16/04/2010 kuu wrote:

>Gently Mine ?

Bingo.

wallwombat
16/04/2010
1:20:03 PM
Go to Narrowneck. There's heaps of decent multipitch routes there that are grade 15 and below.
climberman
16/04/2010
1:39:23 PM
Narrowneck, Mt Boyce, Piddington, Zig Zag, Shipley Lower for classics.

You could get all old school and go to Malatia Wall / Malatia Crack.

Hanging Rock has some great mixed routes (and some average routes which are good days out) under 20.

dave h.
16/04/2010
4:09:31 PM
Maybe it was the cold, but when I did Cave Climb a while ago I thought the start of p1 was absolute nails. Though part of that would have been frozen hands and carrying a pack.

Second the recommendation for the Wolgan, though maybe you'd be better off to go there once you're happy with ~16.

Eduardo Slabofvic
16/04/2010
4:43:55 PM
Move back to Victoria. There are less homosexuals here (not that there's anything wrong with that)
PDRM
16/04/2010
5:19:32 PM
On 16/04/2010 Eduardo Slabofvic wrote:
>Move back to Victoria. There are less homosexuals here (not that there's
>anything wrong with that)

And fewer...

P

bw
17/04/2010
8:42:51 PM
On 16/04/2010 evanbb wrote:
>
>Mt Piddo,
>Joseph, 14, 2 pitches, both classic
>There's a few 2 and 3 pitch routes around there. Prologue and others.
>Names escape me now.
>

How does Prologue go? (11, 3-4 pitches just around from Flake Crack)

evanbb
18/04/2010
6:35:48 AM
On 17/04/2010 b dubya wrote:

>How does Prologue go? (11, 3-4 pitches just around from Flake Crack)

I reckon it's the hardest 11 at Piddo.
From Piddo 250208


I'm pretty confident you won't be able to do it without at least one jamB.

From Piddo 250208


That's the first pitch. The second heads up a nice corner, with some fun clmbing around a cornery-roof. The third was a bit of a bushwalk to a mantle and a belay sitting in a big gum tree. I think we skipped the 4th.
dmnz
18/04/2010
9:30:16 AM
On 16/04/2010 evanbb wrote:

>Tom Thumb, 5 pitches, 1 hour walk in, 150m abseil to start, grade 12,
>maybe easier. Atmospheric position, great walk in and quite straght forward
>climbing.

>

with the crux being staying on route right ev?

There are 16 messages in this topic.

 

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