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Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Grampians	(General)	(General)	(General)	[ Grampians Guide \| Images ]

Topic Date User

Beta on Passport to Insanity? 6-Sep-2003 At 6:41:52 PM hardruss

Message

I also climbed the first 2 pitches of PAssport, and agree genereallly with Neil's comments, particularly about the first pitch being very hard, exciting grade 20 off-width. It just keeps coming at you, and a single #4 Camalot tipped out simply isn't sufficient. Lucky I enjoy soloing.
As for bolting the descent chasm, it does sound unnecessary, surely there must be the possibility to continue with the current descent using a short tyrolean. If a party plans to be finishing in the dark, that must be considered in the plan of what gear to bring along, or appropriate retreat made as the climb progresses.
We also baled from the 2nd pitch ledge using slings equalised on nubbins backed up to a knot and nut in the crack in-situ from a previous party. Also into the high branches of the tree and rap again to ground, no real problem, maybe you'll need to leave a nut or two and some sling/cord to extend anchor over the edge, use your own judgement, that's what this sort of climbing is all about.
Personally I was looking forward to figuring out how/where to set up the tyrolean, although it sounds like it may be unneccessary, if one can lower into the chasm a little and climb the other side, surely the other person can also abseil then be belayed as they climb?
I vote NO BOLTS HERE PLEASE!