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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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VIC Eastern	Cathedral Range	(General)	(General)	[ Cathedral Guide \| Images ]

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New crag at Cathesdrals >>> coming soon 25-Nov-2009 At 6:11:37 PM climbingnirvana

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In a perfect world thats the way it would work neil.
We've always funded our own projects and believe that
anyone who can't afford to should learn to save.
Like i said just rumors and I'm sure that where this/these
people are concerned there is no fire - there is
only smoke. They know who they are and the truth in any case!!

How many bolts does $12,000 get you these days?
By my calculations thats around 1700 fixed hangers with stainless
expansion bolts.
Do you buy in bulk or in lots?
We bend a lot of our own u bolts and find it really cheap compared to
buying them from suppliers.

If possible trad is really the way to go in relation to establishing any new crags
as there is often only imagination limiting your ability to protect climbs
safely and without bolts in many cases if you look hard enough, "welcome to
barbados" springs to mind although i have never been there to see it but know of
the ethics that were behind it's ascent/s.

In essence......... Ethics = Savings!!!!????

My old man was responsible for establishing many serious alpine climbs in the mid 60's in
the Tatra mountains on both sides of the border and minimalism was then the order of
the day, much more-so than these days.
The advantage of the bolt is that it safely opens up new terrain to people wanting to find
new/otherwise dangerous ways to the top.

There is nothing wrong with sport climbing as it is just that - SPORT climbing and thats great.
Many of us enjoy just pulling down on holds with minimal consequence.
Trad climbing is a type of adventure, in that the outcome of failure is not AS certain and the
responsibility lies in your nerve, nouce and ability!

The development of any area will always be the subject of scrutiny, if there are bolts placed then
we can multiply that.

If there's something worth establishing DO IT bolts or not ("just don't get to enthusiastic or it will
override your good judgment") .

It does however unsettle me a little that if one person (and before you go "chockstone" on me neil
I'm just using you as an example for statistic's and example's sake can place/replace about 1700
odd bolts in 5 years rebolting and bolting new lines then the "others that bolt a lot" would
average lets say 1000 a year then how many bolts are out there (and in waiting) slowly making
adventure
a thing of the past? where are we heading with this climbing caper. I like hellraiser the movie
but don't feel that over bolting cliffs to resemble the flick is the the way climbing should be heading!
(these days hellraiser guy would have u bolts or hangers instead of carrots though as they are
easier to clip)

Save money be bold!!