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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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VIC Grampians Northern Mt Stapylton Campground (General) [ Mt Stapylton Campground Guide | Images ] 

Campground Boulders, No Sex After Mushrooms

12:23:55 PM
Looking for beta on No Sex After Mushrooms....
The guide gives three varients A L (7B+), M(7A+), R(6C+)

So I am trying to find out which is which...which which which.
Gratutitous pic of me on the problem to aid for beta, I have been trying it as per pic RH edge, LH to the break out left, then go right and up. I have only manged as far as what the pic shows as I can't control the swing out.. *sigh*

so the lines...
just above the RH edge there looks to be a mono not sure whether to use it?

Above RH edge there is a slot, so do you come out underneath hit the RH edge and then hit the slot with LH.
There is then a slopey rail thingy for the RH, and after that it is going for the top...

There is also some tick marks on this fine break next to the RH ?????????
So if anyone can help with the 3 different lines that would be very good indeed, as I really need the clarification

3:42:12 PM
ok terry, i come out of the heuco and hit the crimp you have with your right, with my left hand. pull up to right hand slopy rail, then left into the big full hang slot. the tick marks in the fine break are proabaly from me on sunday. i use either of those to bump up to the right hand sloper, as i'm not strong enough to pull all the way up of that left hand crimp. so now i have my feet still under the roof, but in a shallow scoop. left hand into slot, the straight up for slopy hold at the top. i consider this as the middle line, as it definately feels 7A+ (V6ish)

2:35:39 PM
What !, .... no gaston lockoff with a crossover in the middle??

2:52:14 PM
lockedoff gaston crossovers are SOOOOo lastseason dude, the latest fashion is back-to-back figure 4's the whole way up!

10:52:25 PM
Start with left heel in scoop, punch out with left hand to where your right is in the pic. There is a good footer in a small scoop for your right, and i found it was crucial for me to drop that knee. Grab a small intermediate edge for balanace, match feet, right foot goes far out right, and right hand pops to sloper jug. Left hand up to good slot. Then get your feet REAL high and punch for the top. Jugs, then a slopey topout.

Grade -V/6 . A very wicked problem.

11:03:06 PM
Funnily enough I watched someone do a figure four from the three finger slot...worked for him .....
Hmmm methinks this is going to be a four or five expresso problem, but it is a fun problem

11:05:08 PM
On 31/05/2005 phil_nev wrote:
>.....Jugs, then a slopey topout.

read, press out the top, just like castle hill terry!

11:10:13 PM
bloody mantles.... 'sok add 2 more coffees

11:51:06 PM
and a few smokes forgood measure
11:52:42 AM
Has anbody seen the latest copy of CLIMB Magazine (formed by a merger of High Mountain Life and On The Edge)? There is a series of 9 (NINE!) photos showing how to do a problem called Brian Spray V5, along with a text description to go with the photos. How short is the attention span (no, it's got nothing to do with 'ape factors') of these boulderers? How many people want that level of beta? All you need is some strength, a bit of balance and enough intelligence to be able to read and look at photos to tick V5.

On the plus side the magazine does have a poster of Serpentine and Onsight has a photo used in one of the adverts.

12:06:11 PM
I was going to buy a copy yesterday - but the credit card was maxed out. The cover made it look like a good mag - pity about the confusing name (for a minute there i thought Mike Myers had resurfaced and started publishing again!)

I really like 'sequence' photos. They are really popular in other sport magazines like surfing ect.
12:10:14 PM
The best sequence information I have ever seen would have to be for a couple of routes at Buoux
Reve De Papillon
La Rose et la Vampire

Step by step route maps

12:20:00 PM
>There is a series of 9 (NINE!) photos showing how to do a problem

I agree with BA, in thinking the Adventure is being detailed out of the experience.

A sequence of piccies of a dynamic medium can be exciting, but climbing (esp. Bouldering?) is generally static by comparison to surfing, unless its a sequence of a good whipper.
1:08:00 PM
On 1/06/2005 BA wrote:
>...and Onsight
>has a photo used in one of the adverts.
I do? What for?

1:27:57 PM
north face, photo is of superstylin at point perp.

seriously nice shot, makes me want to step into the exposure and get on it...


There are 15 messages in this topic.


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