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General Climbing Discussion

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undersized carrots at the county 12-Jan-2011 At 12:36:53 AM rightarmbad

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'Do we need to consign an entire crag to the strange fetishes of a few? '

Do we really need to make every crag the same, just so a bunch of new climbers can have an easier time.
The crag is free for all to climb, everybody else in the past managed to get over the 'bolt plate problems'.

Draws can self detach from U's and rings as easy as hangers.
There is a tiny chance of a failure of a plate on a glue in bolt.
There are also times when the rotation of a bolt plate can mitigate problems.
There is also a tiny chance of failure through self unclipping of every other option out there.

The biggest failure mechanism is of the idiot climbing the cliff.
Never exposed to anything other than a modern U bolt, never bothers to learn about other systems and fuccks up due to their own ignorance.
The same climbers use 'every draw the same size' on gear, and wonder why their entire pitch of cams walk into oblivion.

A bolt on a slab is pretty unseeable, any U or ring is VERY seeable whether it is camo or not.
It is simply the much larger profile that it makes.
In shared access areas the glue in carrot type bolt will always be a better choice until the rest of the population comes on board and agrees that climbing is legit, and should be catered for by encroaching on the visual of other users.

Slowly eliminating every carrot in existance, only makes it more likely that those that never get exposed to them, will make silly mistakes when they do finally encounter them.