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General Climbing Discussion

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solo multi pitch self belay 1-Jan-2011 At 7:08:00 PM brendan

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On 7/04/2010 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>On 1/04/2010 Phil Box wrote:
>>Don't clove the lead rope. Use a long prussik loop and prussik the rope
>>to the piece every 15 metres or so. This will ensure that the rope does
>>the job it is designed to do. Cloving the piece may lift that piece out
>>in a fall. The long prussik allows plenty of stretch through the piece.
>
>... ~> imo it is even better to do the prusik trick using low strength
>cord.
>A shoe lace thickness is sufficient to hold rope-weight to stop back-feeding,
>but will likely break (a good thing), in the event of a fall, thus allowing
>the lead rope to do it's thing relatively unhindered.
>On some climbs when using a Silent Partner, I do this with cotton shoelaces
>(less strong than nylon), and if there is any question of the piece I have
>attached it to being lifted out during a fall because of having this attachment,
>I place an equalised bit of pro for upward loading, to prevent that happening.

I have been using really long pussicks when solo aiding with some success, generally i would use 2/3 per pitch and using them stratigically e.g. on good gear below a roof/edge, so when your jumaring the pitch your weighted rope is hanging from the prussick and not running over the sharp edge above the prussick