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General Climbing Discussion

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The Stuck Leader Scenario 30-Nov-2010 At 11:34:27 AM cruze

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On 30/11/2010 One Day Hero wrote:
>How about 'You are climbing in a gorge. The leader is 40m out on 60m ropes
>on an overhanging, traversing pitch (pitch 5). They fall and are dangling
>in space, unconscious and bleeding. The bit of gear which caught the whip
>is suss.'
>
>For convenience, lets make it the roof pitch on Ozy Direct. I reckon the
>leader is fukced!
Yep. Probably. But at least Tommy's mum can present an open coffin.

It will take longer than 20 mins but you are going to have to get yourself up there and set up an anchor (which could be pretty hard if the gear is suss and the options are limited). You could even short rope/rope solo up to the next anchor opportunity. Then haul the body back to you before reversing the pitch back to your belay with Tommy with prussics etc. Then pull the rope and begin the rap. Hope you brought the head lamp.