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General Climbing Discussion

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The Stuck Leader Scenario 30-Nov-2010 At 10:35:53 AM evanbb

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Definitely need an upward pulling anchor; with some luck the anchor could be set for this already. Tie off which ever rope you think is tightest to keep the leader from plummetting.

Tie off the other rope as well then bundle it and get ready to rope solo lead climb. I'm not going into that as it's been covered elsewhere.

Follow the ropes up and check, then clip any gear the leader placed.

Arrive at leader, who is unconscious but breathing. Build down-pull anchor with what ever comes to hand. Clip leader in hard to anchor, then untie their safety rope. Tie both ropes together and thread through anchor. Get ready to abseil back to the upward anchors, back cleaning all lead placed gear as you go. Clip prone but unconscious climber to belay loop I guess, on a bit of a sling to get them out of the way?

Rap back down both lines, stopping every 55m to build a new anchor, pull the ropes and continue. Get to ground, light a fire and start drinking whiskey until help arrives.

Would be a total frigging epic to manage, but I can't see another way?