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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion
General Climbing Discussion
Topic
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Date |
User
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Anchoring into gravels |
26-Nov-2010 At 1:59:32 PM |
grangrump
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Message |
On 26/11/2010 p wrote:
... >Interesting info there regarding angling pickets at 45 degrees towards
>load to reduce bending of the picket. I wonder if this is also applicable
>to bolts in soft rock, as a common failure mode in mikl's testing seems
>to be the bolt bending and crushing the surrounding rock. Maybe something
>worth trying out?
Some analogies to ice screws (where downward pointing screws are often recommended, perhaps more so in temperatures lower than we get in Australia)?
The the problem is apparently brittleness of ice at surface. |
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