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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Tips for Climbing Faster 24-Oct-2010 At 8:18:39 AM hargs

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On 24/10/2010 patto wrote:
>I've never understood why 'block' leading is advocated as a way of speeding
>things up. Swinging leads is damn fast as the rope is already flake/stacked/looped
>ready to go.

Swinging leads is fast when there are 2 of you. Blocks work well for parties of 3 climbing on doubles (or one leader for the whole route.) Use a Reverso in guide mode to bring up second and third at the same time. Use a cordelette and dedicated lockers for clipping in so the leader isn't tying-untying-retying rope at the anchor. Seconds arrive and clip the master point with their own lockers, clove in with their end of the rope or use a sling. (Now everyone's clipped and safe.) Second takes Reverso off master point and clips to harness (so now leader's on belay with ropes threaded and flaked) then clips spare Reverso onto leaders harness. Second (who racked as he cleaned) clips gear sling to anchor when he arrives at belay so leader can transfer gear while second swaps belay devices.