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General Climbing Discussion

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Tips for Climbing Faster 23-Oct-2010 At 3:32:53 PM brendan

Message

On 22/10/2010 Fish Boy wrote:
>Block leading, thinning out the rack, wearing uncomfortable boots, simulclimbing
>
>(resignation in 10 mins oh yeah) and not getting high...

i think in alot "speed climbing" or alpine climbing scenarios were you might think a smaller lighter rack will be faster it actually isnt. With a larger rack you dont have to spend heaps of time trying to find a placement for the gear you have left and you can simul climb for longer, I also think cams are great speed savers, plug and go.

When i climbed "Directissma" on Dilemma peak (40 odd pitch route in NZ) in January we had what would be considered a massive alpine rack, two sets of nuts, set of cams from bd.3 to 3, 10 shoulder length slings, couple of double length slings. This allowed us to comfortably set up good belays and simul climb for long periods with 3 pieces of gear between us. We were also leading in blocks of four on this route which i think saved time.

Having comfortable "all day" trad shoes so your not taking them off at every belay helps too.