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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Ability of sport vs trad .. 23-Apr-2004 At 8:24:42 PM G

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On 21/04/2004 gfdonc wrote:
>Somewhere in a thread not so far away, someone on the other side of the
>world wrote:
>>> I can lead sport up to around 26 and trad around 18.
>
>Eight grades? Is it just me being an "old timer" or "trad climber" back
>when Sport routes were just former M1 bolt ladders, or does anyone else
>think this is a big spread of grades?
>I would have thought if you could fall up a 26 you'd be good for placing
>protection up to 21/22 (conservatively). I'd have guessed the "standard"
>spread would be say 3-4 grades. What does everyone else think?
>

While a late entrant to this thread, I would have to say that my trad/sport grades have about that spread with the qualification that I have never "worked" and trad route, but that I have spent time working on sport routes. The spread between my onsighting ability in sport and trad is probably about 3 grades.