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Multiptich anchor question 1-Oct-2010 At 6:12:31 AM freesolo

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ok, i'll weigh in whilst waiting for dinner to cook itself.

OP wants to know how to lead 2+ pitches in a row. well, when the leader (A) is at the first belay and bringing up (B), leader A flakes the rope across a sling, which runs from his/her body to the rock/anchor. Normally, when switching leads, the rope is flaked with long loops progressing to smaller loops so that if B is leading, he heads up the next pitch, A feeds out the rope from small loops to big to minimize snarls.

Now, in this case since A is re-leading, or leading again, A will flake the rope with small loops followed by large loops, back and forth across the sling. When B arrives and ties in to anchor, B will also set up a sling from body to rock/anchor.

KEY POINT: (A) carefully lifts the flaked rope up, flips it upside down over B's sling, such that the small loops are on top and large loops on bottom. A starts up, B feeds the rope out.

(important: this is easy to screw up, especially in high winds or really cramped belay stations.)

but it does work. it you screw it up, just reflake the bloody rope before A starts leading.

PS. cordelettes don't really weigh very much and come in handy for tying a splint around a broken limb, anchoring to a big tree (unless you like tree sap on your rope), and can be used doubled up as a sling for a meandering traverse or long roof, cutting in half for anchors if i have to bail for bad weather or injury. i'd rather have a cordelette and two power bars (same weight), than two power bars and no cordelette. i have yet to figure out a way to use a power bar for something other than eating. although i'm sure some of those nancy sport climbers in the bluies probably have.