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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Author
Australia's Own Lost Arrow Spires?

Superstu
28-Sep-2010
11:12:15 AM
So, are bash in carrots still considered the best for bolting soft sandstone on lead?







Photos by Dave Noble
widewetandslippery
28-Sep-2010
11:24:59 AM
Where is it and how do I get there. rodw has my ryobi in his garage.

The rock looks tops.

Given the lack of water table effect I'd say dynas could work quite wellor if you proud, wealthy and wise, carrots on the way up and rings for humanity on the way down.

Did I say where is it and how do you get there? How high is it. I'm like a male roo low on the pecking order diddling looking at that.

nmonteith
28-Sep-2010
11:28:56 AM
What makes you think it hasn't been climbed already?

sportdad
28-Sep-2010
11:40:18 AM
Is that Wolgan in the background?
widewetandslippery
28-Sep-2010
11:43:09 AM
I dunno, I'd think I'd of heard or seen of such a thing. Looks Gardens of stone/wolgan. Noble has that area cased more than anyone from my understanding and there are hundreds of kilometers of unscoped cliff.

hangdog
28-Sep-2010
12:00:48 PM
Dave's website is a great way to see the various crags around the place. I even took a holiday drive north of Sydney to the Widden Valley to check it out after seeing it on his website. This may well in that area??
widewetandslippery
28-Sep-2010
12:03:56 PM
On 28/09/2010 sportdad wrote:
>Is that Wolgan in the background?

Looks similar but there is a lack of cliffs in the western/RHS as you look at pic of photo. The road is obvious. There is farming clearing in the foreground but the upper wolgan has a lot of cleared ground.

This should be a guess the route!
mikllaw
28-Sep-2010
12:05:29 PM
On 28/09/2010 superstu wrote:
>So, are bash in carrots still considered the best for bolting soft sandstone
>on lead?
Pretty good, use longer coach screws if the rock is total sand. 12 mm dynabolts would be ok, but rust out quickly and cost about 10 times as much.

the pinnacle look like Old Skule in the grose, and if you want a bigger version, the wafer thin fin
DaveN
28-Sep-2010
12:27:11 PM
These pinnacles are in the Capertee Valley, but not too far from Newnes (via Little Capertee Creek). They are on the divide between Mt Dawson and Point Nicholson. The most impressive is "Ross's Knob" and I haven't heard of it being climbed. Its a fair way to lug in equipment (although there is a fire trail not too far below it - but access to that trail may involve going through private land). There is a photo of it in Ian Brown's early book (the one with poems), and also Tom Williams knows of it - but he has never told me he has climbed it. I have added a few more photos and a google earth image to this page -

http://www.david-noble.net/climbing/Pinnacles/RedRocksPinnacles.html

Dave
J.C.
28-Sep-2010
12:30:31 PM
On 28/09/2010 mikllaw wrote:
>On 28/09/2010 superstu wrote:
>>So, are bash in carrots still considered the best for bolting soft sandstone
>>on lead?
>Pretty good, use longer coach screws if the rock is total sand. 12 mm
>dynabolts would be ok, but rust out quickly and cost about 10 times as
>much.

mikl could we just clarify/qualify that statement for the folks regarding the reliability of dynabolts in blue mountains rock, so that there is no confusion!!
J.C.
28-Sep-2010
12:32:09 PM
also, let me know what the top of the spire is like, could be a really fun highline!
mikllaw
28-Sep-2010
1:21:36 PM
On 28/09/2010 J.C. wrote:
>mikl could we just clarify/qualify that statement for the folks regarding
>the reliability of dynabolts in blue mountains rock, so that there is no
>confusion!!
ok, but i don't know why you'd bother. You have to go to 12 or 14 mm holes before they are any good, no-there hasn't been any testing. They are much more prone to rusting and if you go to stainless they are very expensive. They should be reasonably strong however. They only ones I've placed were on On Edge and lasted a year, probably only 10mm

IdratherbeclimbingM9
28-Sep-2010
9:44:45 PM
On 28/09/2010 J.C. wrote:
>also, let me know what the top of the spire is like, could be a really fun highline!

I am waiting for your U-tube vid of landing from a b-jump onto one...

There are 13 messages in this topic.

 

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