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General Climbing Discussion

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Biggest/Nastiest whipper with no sad ending 24-Sep-2010 At 12:48:54 PM Terrapin18

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On 24/09/2010 pmonks wrote:
>On 24/09/2010 evanbb wrote:
>>Dan then lead the first pitch of Schwing, a 2 pitch 18 that has a fun
>little roof just before the first belay.
>>I wobbled up to the belay and set off on the second.
>
>That second pitch is deceptively hard I reckon. The first pitch is nice
>and positive and while there's a roof it's on massive jugs. The second
>pitch is less steep but also a lot more tenuous...

Really? I found it crazy that the guide shows both pitches of Schwing being 18's. The first pitch is definitely an 18...I reckon the 2nd pitch is more like a 15-16. When my mate and I started, we just saw ring bolts on the first pitch so didn't worry much about bolt plates. Then when we got to the 2nd pitch and saw it was carrots the rest of the way up. Luckily I had my bolt plates on my harness (all 6 of them!). The 2nd pitch has over 10 carrots, so I basically led the 2nd pitch clipping every 2nd. That could have been a huge fall in some places...

Same mate...different day. We were at Nowra and my mate was leading Vanderholics. He was a relatively new leader and when he got to the chains (fairly pumped) he was worrying about clipping in his safety rather than just putting on a quick draw to quickly get on the anchor. His safety didn't reach at first, so he tried to move up closer and then pumped out and came off. He fell all the way into the cave at half height! The rope caught just as he was entering the cave so he swung into the cave...scraping the top of both his thighs.......He was shaken up but a little surface scrapes (and a fair amount of blood) was all that happened. Probably the biggest fall I've seen.