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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
The carrot patch..? 2-Sep-2010 At 6:53:04 PM devlin66
Message
On 2/09/2010 robertsonja wrote:
>And back to the original post on this thread - Can someone explain the
>advantage of placing these horrid things over real bolts with proper hangers?
> In terms of safety and protection, NO advantage at all.
>
>The only advantage would be in terms of cost, and aesthetics. If you are
>placing a bolt for climbing protection safety should be the only real
>priority.
>
>The disadvantages of hangerless bolts are numerous, varied and real. I
>cannot see any cases where they provide any advantage in terms of climbing
>protection. (If an unwanted torque is placed on a fixed hanger bolt I would
>suggest that the bolt has a suboptimal placement - by definition).

Deep down I would prefer to see the carrot banished but to keep the controversy to a dull roar I have accepted that carrots could be used in the context I mentioned before.

>In each and every case, a bolt with a fixed hanger, if placed correctly
>will provide a better level of protection.

This is not necessarily the case. It can be demonstrated that biners can become unclipped from rings and brackets given the right circumstances. Unfortunately there is, so far, not a fool proof system.

There are 147 replies to this topic.

 

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