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General Climbing Discussion

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The carrot patch..? 28-Aug-2010 At 4:16:51 PM Blah

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Carrots are history so we should keep them.... Yeah, windjammers are history - would you want to work on one? I bet everyone on this thread who has a car has one that is less than 30 years old, and wouldn't want its brakes replaced with those of a 30 yold car.
You want to trad climb? fine! I love it too.
You whack in a bolt? don't faff about, either do it properly or not at all, so safe gaps and safe bolts. Once one bolt is in you might as well finish the job... it ain't trad any more.

BTW the issue with ubolts/air in glue or rings/twist out.... would using 8 or 10mm threaded rod and screwing on a ring solve it? Any torque would not be transferred to the rod, as the ring would be free to move a little - also, the ring alone could be replaced once a few 1000 people have lowered through it...
The biggest issue as far as strength though is cleaning the drill dust out of the hole PROPERLY

Rant over...