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General Climbing Discussion

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guides new zealand 26-Jul-2010 At 12:31:02 AM Wollemi

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On 24/07/2010 J.C. wrote:
>I did a 10-day TMC with Bill Atkinson a few years back too, can't recommend
>him enough.
Why? If I may say, I have found with trekking, and skiing and kayak courses, that peoples judgements may be clouded by the tasty creamy dinner put on the first night, and having a copious array of nibblies available minutes after arriving back at camp/hut each evening.
Have you continued with alpinism? Do TMC’s ever get you out the door 2 hours before first light to instill in you the need to be moving early on hard snow?

>I found the course itself frustratingly slow if you have plenty of experience
>moving fast on multipitch trad, but still felt that it was a great very
>basic foundation for getting into the hills.
What is ‘moving fast on multipitch trad’? On a thread here at Chockstone many weeks back, someone said an hour per pitch on rock in Oz – others tended to agree.

…if I had
>the money/time over again I would just book Bill as a private guide with
>a climbing partner, I recokn I would have learnt a LOT more and gotten
>a lot more done. I'd also book an avy course for the same trip.
When I see pics of the climbers gear at a bivy, the avy gear must be left inside the pack as well, hey?
This is not a criticism of you, but did Mr Atkinson state just when to carry the extra metal? It is appreciated that avy instruction can teach (to an extent) when to not go out/when to retreat, and so a feeling of not needing to carry the shovel and probe dictates. Also; ’yeah – following that long ridge up from X hut and back is a long, but spectacular day – and you’ll be well above any potential fracture lines or debris run-outs.’

I just never see pics of mountaineers with a shovel and probe each.