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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Blueys Beta 7-Apr-2004 At 8:12:14 AM Estey

Message

On 6/04/2004 Mighty Mouse wrote:
>accomodation reccomndation- the katoomba backpackers (the one next to the
>fruit market)- cheap and a great bunch of people, plus very close to both
>the main road and train stations (close enough that you can catch a train
>or hitchhike without any trouble at all, but far enough that you cant hear
>the cars & trains going past all the time)
>
>>Viparette 14
>this easy teaser was the first trad lead i ever did...not sure why it
>got 3 stars but I had fun because i had very little idea how to place gear.
>ie, 1 cam down low, then a hex, a cam and 2 nuts all equalised into one
>placment at the very top (not more than two moves from the anchors)
>glad to say my placement skills have improved (if not by much)
>
>Mt York- eveyones recomending the classic trad stuff (atomic punk, auntie
>jack, exhibition, obituary, etc...) but dont forget the carrot down the
>other end- mezzaluna, lexical density and yes, NOODLE. onsight you said
>15 in the guide- but theres no way....8m runout start (easy so not worrying)
>but then the first thwo bolts you'd hit the boulder anyway, and after the
>glued on edge theres a crazy 1-2 finger sideways lockoff that you have
>to crank from above your head to below your waist....ahh the painful memories