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General Climbing Discussion

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araps 9-12th april 6-Apr-2004 At 1:48:19 PM stinkingoat

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Gile indeed did invent a simple grading system (B1,B2,B3) I could go into it further but im sure that you already understand the vage nature of this system. But it was only applicable to him as nobody else came close to his ability, even to this day, some of his problems still await a second ascent.

As for the Font system, only the odd few people with the desire to chase numbers bothered as most boulders were happy to wonder around doing the coloured circuits. As I was on several occasions in both the '80s and '90s.

John Sherman regrets inventing the V system( which he only started as a bit of a joke) because in his opinion it has destroyed bouldering by attracting a different mind set of people, or at least thats what he told me.

Grading systems in bouldering are not needed, either you can get up it or you cant. Going to the Buttermilks in the '80s with nothing more than directions of turn right at Bishop, was one of the best 2 weeks I've spent bouldering
(and my 2 friends and I had the place to ourselves for the entire time, makes you drool thinking about that doesn't it Martin)

The idea for a piles bouldering guide was toyed with by a few locals over the years. As yet there is still no comprehensive list of areas let alone problems, and I hope it stays that way ( which it should as some of the better areas are only know to a few people) so as not to have the same trashed areas like in central gully [check out the high tide mark on the slime boulder] and what has happened to stapilton.

Tel, if names and grades are important to you the so be it but do yourself a favour, as this is your first trip to the piles. Leave the guide book in the pack and wonder around being blown away by the awesome bouldering there. Oh and you can use any holds you like, snigger.