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General Climbing Discussion

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why are old routes so hard? e.g. Kingdom Come 27-Apr-2010 At 4:52:58 PM freesolo

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electric warrior, except for one boulder move near the start, is actually about 18, if you know how to crack climb. most of the people i saw struggling on it didn't know how to hand or finger jam, so it ends up being a stiff 20 or more.

morfyyd is another climb that is very easy if you are comfortable hand jamming. again, one move at the bottom is boulder'y and the rest is bomber jams. but most of my mates when i was there struggled with the upper 2/3rds

from the perspective of getting pumped forearms, tannin is harder than electric warrior because there's only one hand jam on the whole route.

squeakeasy is a great climb for both jamming and face moves - just enough jams to give your forearms a rest.

i would say most victorian climbers don't get enough crack practice. just go spend a xmas holiday at ben lomond and all those cracks at araps will be a piece of piss. or just do laps on french crack until you can solo it. it has a soft landing.