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new Blue Mtns guidebook -- call for info! 21-Jan-2010 At 2:27:34 PM linze

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On 20/01/2010 spicelab wrote:
>Given the continual decline in rock quality of the new crags developed
>in the past 5 years in particular, I reckon a choss rating system is in
>order.
>
>There are a number of proxies you could use:
>- average number of breaking holds per ascent;
>- average amount of glue per square metre; and
>- estimated time before the entire crag falls down.
>
I like this... except that it would be redundant within three minutes of the book going onto the shelves. As such I suggest the development of a ‘choss assessment matrix’. On the x axis you would probably just have months since the guide was published, but the y axis would be more difficult. It would need to encompass a wealth of detail including the gluing habits of the first ascensionist and the likelihood of actually finding some quality under the choss. After the invention of the ‘CHAM’ we would be able to strategically map out the next few years of Sundays to ensure that we got to these new spots when the routes were at their most stable (which I understand is just prior to complete collapse).

Also should the comments for each route mention the visionary souls that removed key pieces of choss over the years to clear the path for the quality assents of today. The key example that comes to mind is the visionary removal of that pesky jug that used to spoil the middle of Apraxia. Shouldn’t everyone know who to quietly thank while joyfully going up to that gaston that was just begging to be uncovered.... makes me wonder what quality lyes just metres below the current crop of choss....

>