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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Author

Yesterday's Groove retrobolted, again!

mikl law

26/12/2009
4:01:28 PM

This classic was originally done with about 12 bolts in the 2 corner pitches and load of cams in breaks, a top pitch was added later. Then the whole thing was retrobolted with about 27 carrots to make a rarely repeated sport route. It' now had 45 Ubolts placed to make it a lot saner and more classic. Face climbing and a bit of bridging, it gets sun at 3pm, 20 minute flat walk-in, 3 or 5 stars depending on your system. Take double ropes fro rapin, 15 draw and ( 2 x 2 Ubolt) belay gear.The glue all seems to have set so put on your good shoes and enjoy.

citationx

26/12/2009
6:08:54 PM

was that how you spent your boxing day? bolting it?
thanks for all your efforts, looking forward to getting my...groove on.

mikl law

26/12/2009
6:16:02 PM

On 26/12/2009 citationx wrote:
>was that how you spent your boxing day? bolting it?
No spent the 24th falling off it before finishing rebolting, iin the sun unfortunately

dclimber

27/12/2009
8:00:55 PM

I can attest that this super classic corner will be that much better with U's was a total
battle fiddling on hangers mid crux. I think the last pitch is nails for the grade!! Thanks for
the hard work will have to have a rematch with the last pitch now.

hipster

28/12/2009
7:28:35 AM

This is a really awesome climb. A stonking line and quite hard at the grade, especially that second pitch. The overall package is certainly 5 stars, especially if you're lucky enough, like I was, to repeat it with Mikl himself.
Take your walking shoes if 23 is your limit though...

There are 5 messages in this topic.