Chockstone Forum - General Discussion
General Climbing Discussion
Topic
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Date |
User
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On chopping bolts ... |
27-Nov-2009 At 11:59:24 AM |
startedwithtrees
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Message |
There's no way I'd solo down castle crag! I'm tired of this "ethic" which says that you're stuck on the ground unless you're willing to lead an 11 and then solo down a 9. Nobody starts out climbing like a hard ass and just because bolt cutters are nuts doesn't mean it isn't completely appropriate for there to be rap anchors on climbs for others. Or should beginners be stuck on the ground unless they're willing to risk a death fall? I imagine the reply to this post will be "if you don't want to take the risk don't climb", but there are different levels of risks you can take when climbing and soloing vs leading is one of them. It isn't fair to force everyone to climb in a (dangerous) certain way because a few old school types think its the only way it should be done. And while on topic - bring on the appropriately placed bolts I say. I lead a 13 the other day with a 10 metre runout and virtually a deck fall. That's ridiculous. |
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