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General Climbing Discussion

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The greatest sandbags in Victoria 7-Oct-2009 At 9:44:00 PM SteveC

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On 7/10/2009 porkpie wrote:
>I think NM is right. The ewbank system is meant to be the hardest move.
> But i believe that is how hard a move feels on the ascent (onsight, redpoint,
>etc) not the dog. So a route like Rubber Lover is 25 but the hardest move
>on the dog is only about 20 (from memory).

That is a contradictory statement, but is also the simplest and most accurate description of the
grading system in this entire thread. Nice work Porkypie

But you are talking about the Blue mtns, and I have it on authority that nobody onsights anything here
these days. So the Ewebank system does not apply anymore. Probably need to use the compounding
V system someone mentioned or maybe the Font system.

But for climbing in the style of Victoria and the rest of the world apart from the Blueys and a couple of
nations of Romance extraction, the Ewebank system works well for the simple reason that it tells you
how hard the route is, simply. For any other relevant info or for literary grades and opinions in case you
cant decide whether or not you want to climb it, consult the guidebook. Find the oldest guide book you
can if you want the most accurate information of the route.