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General Climbing Discussion

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34? 15-Mar-2004 At 2:14:29 PM shmalec

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There are a couple of issues here.

One relates to ethics of damaging the rock to construct a climb. This issue has been around since the dawn of time and I think generally understood. It basically comes down to the rest of the population’s right to enjoy the rock in its natural state without damage or vandalism. It has an extra dimension in this case though. As I understand it Ben is claiming that this is the hardest climb in the country. There is a lot to be gained by setting the hardest route in the country. Changing the route so that it suits his climbing strengths and forces others to climb the route in this way makes it harder for them to take advantage of the benefits of being in the spotlight.

The other issue relates to when he changed it. The route he climbed is not the same route. It has been changed. And the change is designed specifically to favour the way that he climbs. He may not have used those holds and may be able to repeat the ascent, but its not the same route now.

Personally, I think it’s a piss poor example to set the rest of the climbing community who often idolise climbers of Ben’s ability. We all make ethical choices when we climb and those who are new to the game are often unaware of the issues or the fact that the route they are climbing will see hundreds or thousands of ascents after they finish it.