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General Climbing Discussion

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Australian Grading 30-Aug-2009 At 5:39:35 AM MelH

Message

>I didn't mean to try and trick you Mel. I've had limited experience of
>climbing in the UK, but am aware that there's quite a lot of grade discrepancies
>there even with the adjectival/technical garding systems.
>
>I thought Agag's Groove on the Buckle was a bit stiff for VD (grade 8??)
>but I've also soloed some short S & VS 4a climbs which were a piece of
>piss in comparison. I've started on the 'Classic Rock' tick list in the
>UK but I'm not getting a lot of ticks done due to living in Australia.
>
>Although I've led HVS 5a (on Skye) I certainly wouldn't try all the HVS
>on offer in the UK. I'm really happy about Severe grade, which would wquate
>in Australia between 12-14.
>
>Cheers,
>
>Mike.

Fair enough - sorry for being such so cynical. I climb HVS at home. VS I am always happy on. Sports I onsite 6b and have redpointed 6c+. I want to be onsighting E1 and 7a by the end of next year. Maybe the 7a is a bit ambitious?

Like you say it depends on the route - I much prefer kind of 3D climbing rather than just hauling ass on strength moves. I like bridging and drop knees, and useing little edges for your feet, and things where the holds might not be obvious at first. Stuff you have to think about it a little rather than looking at it and seeing exactly where your next hold is and knowing you have to do some insane lock off on some sh1te hold.