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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Want to set up a climbing gym in Melbourne? 17-Aug-2009 At 8:38:57 PM alrob
On 17/08/2009 WM wrote:
>I thought I was clear, but let me reiterate: the potential market I'm
>talking about is
> Eastern Melbourne; and
> a gym offering both bouldering and roped climbing
>On 16/08/2009 alrob wrote:
>>Bayside Rock is going to provide climbers in the east with an alternative
>to Nunnawading.
>I don't agree. It helps people in the *southeast* (roughly, anyone south
>of the Monash) but for people in the east (or northeast for that matter),
>Carrum is as far or even farther away than Altona! Box Hill (for example)
>to Carrum is 90km return. So, even once the roped climbing is set up,
>Carrum will involve wasting 60+ minutes in the car, sacrificing a huge
>chunk of a weeknight training window. Not to mention being twice the cost
>if you add in petrol and Eastlink tolls ($10.30 return). I have every
>expectation that Carrum will be a great gym ... but unfortunately completely
>impractical for me on weeknights.

So, you're unhappy about the quality of your local gym, and unhappy that the drive to the other gyms is too far, should we then plonk one on your doorstep? The distance between Nunnas and Bayside is about 30km. Distance between Nunnas and Altona about 30km. So each gym covers a 15km radius area without overlapping. East of Nunnas thats out to Kyilsyth, north is Kangaroo Ground/Eltham, west is Richmond, south is Springvale. Thats a pretty big chunk of the east where people have to drive just 30km's return to go climbing. Add that with Baysides range, most of the East is within 15kms of a gym. Thats pretty good!

I used to drive from Balwyn North to Bayside every day during the build. 35 minutes on Eastlink. If one is truly unhappy with Nunnawading, surly the features you find better at the other gyms are worth the extra drive and money. Whats that old saying? Can't have you're cake and eat it too?

>>I think they lack in quality routes, yes, but thats more to do with the
>>very limited pool of experienced routesetters in Melbourne, and not managments
>>decisions to not bother trying!
>Again, I disagree. Irrespective of the quality of routes, the fact that
>some routes sit there for literally years is a disgrace - and entirely
>a result of management's decision not to fork out any money to replace
>Having a new crap route to climb every 3 months would be far better
>than climbing the same crap route for 2 years straight. And basic "supply
>and demand" makes it obvious that any lack of talented routesetters is
>a direct consequence of a lack of spending by the gyms. So yes, the lack
>of quality can also be blamed firmly on management.

No it can't. Geez your just thinking about the dollars! Routesetting takes TIME!! Thats the issue. I know for a FACT that Hardrock management are willing to spend money on setting. The issue is finding people to set. Setting is not something that just anyone can do. The majority of the people employed by nunnawading don't know the first thing about setting routes. This includes rope management, setting routes which flow and have purpose, setting routes which are SAFE...... The lack of talented routesetters has nothing to do with gyms not spending money, is due to a lack people who are ABLE to take the time to learn about setting and are willing to put the time in on the rope. You said before that climbing at another gym will waste 60+ minutes one night a week. Yet a routsetter has to find 4-6 HOURS to set. Now, I like most people, work full time. So am I expected to use my weekend away climbing to stay in Melbourne and set for you all while you're away in the Gramps or Araps?

>>Seriously mate, thats a grose exaggeration, and one I know a lot of Melbourne
>climbers make. Most climbers out there
>>can't begin to imagine, not just the amount of time and effort required
>>to set routes, but also the difficulty and knowledge in setting a route
>>which climbs well and people will enjoy, rather then a smattering of
>>up a wall that resembles a route but climbs like shit.
>I'll assume you know me well enough not to include me in that group!
>Regardless, the big question you haven't answered is why, when all climbing
>gyms around Melbourne/Australia/the world face the exact same problem,
>Nunawading has the worst quality route setting (at least of the dozens
>I've been to, in multiple countries). You already know what my answer
>is - if there's another explanation I'm all ears.

Because almost none of the employees at Hardrock are climbers, or know how to routeset. Its that simple! Cliffhanger employs mostly climbers, and these people know how to set routes. As do most of the other gyms around Australia/The World. There are a few people I have known for a long time who do a fantastic job at Hardrock, but they can't be expected to give up all their time to routeset can they?

Your argument of management not wanting to spend money = shit routesetting is bogus. Its got to do with the time setters are able to find in their busy schedules to help the gyms. Hell, you find it difficult to find 60 minutes on a weeknight to drive to and from a climbing gym..... where do I find multiple hours in a day to set for you all?

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