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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Ben Nevis - Shame on you. What a waste of a crag. 14-Aug-2009 At 9:49:44 AM JohnK
Message
Ok, well back to the original thread then - I'll bite at this one.

Although I have not climbed there, have wanted to visit the crag for some time myself, it sounds a bit like the bolting practices at the You Yangs! - great rock (although some might argue against this), great location, and some great climbs ruined in my opinion by poor bolting practices... aka: lots of ground fall potential on many climbs and run out climbing making you feel like you are soloing most of the time - my first climb there was a Grade 15 climb which after one piece of pro and a piton turned into a 20 meter run out job without pro and any more bolts meaning you would hit the ground if you fell.

So it sounds once again like climbs put up by people glimbing at least 10 grades harder and bolting on lead - although admirable, when safety is compromised then that cannot be a good thing. In my mind, whether bolted or protected with pro, the lead climber should always feel safe on a climb if they are likely to take a fall - not suggesting bolting every meter off course - but going to the other extreme cannot be good especially for those that are leading at their max. Just my 2 cents worth anyhow.

John K.

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