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General Climbing Discussion

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Mount Buffalo Guidebook 9-Mar-2004 At 9:57:56 AM Mike

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Some Buffalo beta too...

Horn Area, Dreamworld, "Buffalo Soldier" (16), the guide claims "good protection" this should be amended to "sparse" or "less than inspiring". A nut or cam in the hollow sounding flake "protects" the start. At 1/3 height a tiny horn flake can be slung and maybe a loose, weighted sling over one of the fragile flake jugs, might (if you're lucky) hold a fall. At half height a small RP or the like might hold in a tiny crack. The only real protection comes at 3/4rd height where-in a reasonable nut can be sloted, and top out is protectable also. But all up, you'd not want to be at your lead max and conned by this claim of "good protection". Super fun route though, and super easy jugs.

On the same block, attempting to belay from above, ** "This Is Not Our Land" (19) from chains at top "Buffalo Soldier" is problematic given the hortizontal distance between the routes. It's still doable, just something to be wary of.