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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Tiger Wall - Dribble Bolting? 13-Aug-2009 At 1:14:20 PM robertsonja

Message

>Just so we can have all the facts please;

THE FACT: there are 2 bolts and enough placements for SIX ANCHORS using natural placements.

>a) Did you clip the bolts to use for a belay before building the trad
>anchors?

Irrelevant to the topic. My partner lead the pitch and slung two solid horns and placed a 0.75 BD Cam. Even if we had clipped the bolts for convenience that fact still remains.

>b) Had you read the guidebook that mentions the belay bolts and decided
>to climb the route anyway?

Irrelevant to the topic. I can't remember if the guidebook mentions the bolts or not, but would of climbed it anyway. If there was graffiti on the climb, probably would of climbed it anyway.

>c) Would you have bothered to even look at the route before it got two
>stars and a positive write up?

Irrelevant to the topic. The route wasn't in my old Selected climbs guidebook so was unaware of the route. It has been included in the new guidebook so now I am aware of the climb. Yes, I would of bothered to look at the route regardless of the stars or someones write up.

>d) What grade do you normally lead on trad?

Irrelevant to the topic. It doesn't matter what grade I lead or what grade the person I belay leads. I make sure that all leaders I belay know how to make a SERENE anchor, selfishly because I usually follow and don't want to fall on anything less than an appropriate anchor. I realise that with experience usually comes an increase in grades and an increase in more appropriate anchors and safety, but if anyone steps off the ground with a rack - they better know how to make a appropriate anchor, whether they lead grade 3 or lead grade 33.

>Having lead a few 50m pitches at Araps such as Kestrel I'd certainly gratetful
>for the bolts as I've usually place nearly all my rack on the route.

What would happen if you inspected the bolts and were a bit suspect of them? Or got off route and missed them? Or they had been chopped. Or they were missing the hangers. Or they needed tightening. If you climb with a rack, make sure you have some spare kit. If your running out of gear mid pitch, probably start looking for three placements you can belay from. Or start downclimbing. Self reliance my friend!