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General Climbing Discussion

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VCC draft bolting policy 13-Feb-2003 At 5:57:06 PM Robin

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OK I've done a bit more research on products and prices.

Bogong in Melbourne has Fixe rap stations. The more attractive brown powder coated chains with a quick clip lower off is $49.95. Add a couple of dyna bolts and you're nearly up for $60. The less attractive stainless steel chain, brackets and heavy duty ring is $29.95. Add a couple of dyna bolts and you're set for about $38, $35 with a VCC discount.

Keable bolts in Melbourne sells a range of bolts and adhesives. I've purchased 12mm x 70mm stainless dyna bolts for $3.56, 4" x 3/8" stainless machine bolts for $1.94 and chemset glue capsules for about $1.90 each. Some of these prices are a bit out of date but shouldn't be too far off the mark.

I checked out Bunning the other night to see how the hardware equivalent compared. 8mm cold dipped chain was $7.65 per meter and had a working load of 500kg. I forgot to write the price of 10mm chain but it did have a working load of 790kg. I don't know the ultimate load rating but I would assume that it would be 2 or 3 times the working load (Ultimate load for Ramset glues is 3 x the working load). 10mm D shackles were $6.42 each. There were no suitable stainless steel bolts available. Allowing for 2 x 30cm 10mm chains, 2 washers, 2 x 10mm shackles and 2 stainless dyna bolts it would add up to about $27.

Now I would be pretty confident that 2 chains rated at 790kg+ will not fail. But if we are talking about best practice, stainless steel would still be recommended. One more problem with gal chains is that the rock can wear through the gal coating on the underside of the chain and corrosion can begin.