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General Climbing Discussion

Author

Technique Improvement


GG

1-Mar-2004
12:53:00 PM

Other than time on Rock. What has helped improve your outdoor climbing the most?


Rich

1-Mar-2004
1:06:32 PM

as far as technique?
1. time on rock 2. time on plastic 3. reading tech training books (such as performance rc) 4. watching others climb


Romfrantic

1-Mar-2004
1:37:16 PM

Yoga

dalai

1-Mar-2004
1:50:55 PM

Break the climbing movements into individual components. Then do drills, drills and more drills working on your weakest component on the bouldering wall.


nmonteith

1-Mar-2004
1:51:32 PM

Sleeping well the night before, eating healthly the week before and getting on the route first climb of the day!


alrob

1-Mar-2004
3:03:57 PM

hang off everything you possibly can! door jams, tree branches, holding yourself up between 2 kitchen benches


Rich

1-Mar-2004
3:10:04 PM

On 1/03/2004 alrob wrote:
>hang off everything you possibly can! door jams, tree branches, holding
>yourself up between 2 kitchen benches

and that helps ur technique? ;-) finger strength yup.. btw from past experience unless uv got strong fingers already, pull ups off door jambs are not a good idea!!


GG

1-Mar-2004
3:10:51 PM

On 1/03/2004 dalai wrote:
>Break the climbing movements into individual components. Then do drills,
>drills and more drills working on your weakest component on the bouldering
>wall.
>

What kind of drills do you mean?


nmonteith

1-Mar-2004
3:16:08 PM

Do the same move again and again so it is second nature.

dalai

1-Mar-2004
3:55:08 PM

Ah grasshopper.. the path to enlightenment is a slow and tedious journey...

Some footwork drills since this is many peoples weakness including mine:

Make no sound - works best on ply walls is traversing with feet making no sound. Focuses on placing feet rather than the poor hit and slide.

Choose a foot placement for the next move and keep it in that position through the move. Teaches you to read the foot placement and sequence as smaller footholds sometimes need a steady position otherwise they will slip.

For more drills, get a copy of Performance Rockclimbing by Dale Goddard and Udo Neumann. Though now an old book published early 90's? it still is the best I've read.


mousey

1-Mar-2004
3:57:24 PM

rather than specific training, i just do a range of different things while climbing- im sure specific training does heaps to help but for me it kind of defeats the purpose of why i climb
while you're on the rock try doing little things like waiting 3 seconds and taking a deep breath between each hold (usually on something that isnt too dificult- on routes at your limit it could take longer than that anyway), and not 'scuffing' up the wall (once you place your foot, you aren't allowed to shuffle it around- at first it makes you concentrate a lot more on your foot placements, but after a while you make good placements every time). the closest thing to specific training I do is traversing around the gym, but thats more for endurance than technique
does anyone else have little tricks like this that help them?


Rich

1-Mar-2004
4:22:22 PM

bouldering in the gym or at home in a group is good as you get to see how others would do particular moves

James

1-Mar-2004
4:24:07 PM

I find watching others climb to be helpful. Watching someone who climbs in a similar style to me is even better. Of course this renders watching static-man-monteith & jono-the-pig next to useless for me :)


tmarsh

1-Mar-2004
5:39:49 PM

Get injured and take time off. Do nothing except keep aerobically fit and keep your weight down. Then come back when the injury has healed and get back on routes that you know were close to your limit before. You'll be weak as piss, but you won't want to fall off coz it would hurt your pride to fall off something you know should be in the bag. Ergo, your technique will improve.

This is a (kinda) serious suggestion. Most people who come from a gym introduction are waaaay stronger than their route grades would suggest. In fact, they are usually so strong in proportion to the grades they climb that it inhibits the development of good technique. Taking some time off can do wonders in letting things get sorted in your head.

tim


jens

1-Mar-2004
11:32:09 PM

6 parts tomato juice
2 parts vodka
tobasco
woustershire
lemon juice
salt
pepper

Sit back, and watch others train!


Rich

2-Mar-2004
12:19:07 PM

On 1/03/2004 tmarsh wrote:
>Get injured and take time off. Do nothing except keep aerobically fit and
>keep your weight down. Then come back when the injury has healed and get
>back on routes that you know were close to your limit before. You'll be
>weak as piss, but you won't want to fall off coz it would hurt your pride
>to fall off something you know should be in the bag. Ergo, your technique
>will improve.
>
>This is a (kinda) serious suggestion. Most people who come from a gym
>introduction are waaaay stronger than their route grades would suggest.
>In fact, they are usually so strong in proportion to the grades they climb
>that it inhibits the development of good technique. Taking some time off
>can do wonders in letting things get sorted in your head.
>
>tim

Actually that performance rock climbing suggests taking time off climbing each year to clear your tecnique of all the bad parts of your technique that you pick up along the way such as chalking up continuously when stressed etc.


neats

2-Mar-2004
12:27:46 PM

ahh, the chalk demon syndrome!!

2-Mar-2004
3:59:01 PM

Watch, try and copy movement from other climbers of same build.


GG

2-Mar-2004
4:05:05 PM

I would love to...anyone know a decent climber around 6'2 93kg.....


GG

2-Mar-2004
4:09:31 PM

Where is Klem?

There are 41 messages in this topic.