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General Climbing Discussion

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VCC draft bolting policy 7-Feb-2003 At 1:01:03 PM Robin

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Thanks for the feedback. 'Bolts' refers to machine bolts, carrots (not recommended for use), ring bolts and dyna bolts. These should definitely be stainless steel. It's not too expensive - I just picked up 12mm x 70mm 316 stainless dyna bolts for less than $4 each. Titanium? I might be dreaming there but perhaps in an extremely corrosive environment they may be worth considering.

As far as rap stations go I've just noticed that there is no mention of what material should be used. I would still recommend stainless steel commercial rap stations although I know from my own experience that these can be very costly. As far as using gal chains, D-shackles etc. go the policy cannot recommend these for use unless we have technical information on the relative strength of these chains. I also suspect that if you go to a hardware you wont be getting the same chain everytime, everwhere.

At the end of the day the policy is a statement of 'best practice'. Individuals will, as in the past, take responsibility for the fixed protection they place.

Finally the 25kn for rap anchors is the minimum strength set out by the UIAA and published in ar article by Petzl (Argus 95). I would expect that most 12mm stainless steel bolts, glues and heavy duty chains would meet this standard.